원정 개요

BC southeast side of Tsho Og, 200m southeast of Japan 82 autumn BC
C1 start of climb, base of North Face (or NW Face)
C2 on face
C3 on face
High point on face.

BC abandoned on 18 Dec because struck by 130-kph wind and destroyed climb which was semi-alpine-style. 10 days of no snow but high winds, spindthrift and little rockfall. Real hazard was rock falling. Hit moraine approaching face. Maximum temperature at C3 was -20 degrees. Technically not an easy climb on steep face of ice or unconsolidated snow 1-1/2 ft on rock. Problem to find camp sites (didn't have equipment for hanging camps). NE Ridge looked beyond their capabilities on its jagged rock cornices and gendarmes. Descended to a new BC at 3950m on 29 Dec (at Lundung Kharka).


Banskota, Tourism - 31 Dec 1984

BC 13 Dec 4820m due strong wind BC moved down to Lumding Kharki 4000m 17 Dec
C1 20 Dec
C2 21 Dec 5350m
C3 25 Dec 5900m

Because of technical nature of climbing making it time-consuming, food and fuel supplies exhausted (had only 7 days supply). Abandoned 27 Dec after reaching 6050m by both members. In BC 29 Dec and left 30 Dec for trek.

-20 degrees daily temperature with gusting winds 130 km/hr and spindtrift avalanche regular occurrence.