원정 개요

Most difficult part of route was 1st 1000m of ridge. All afraid of rock fall. Were only two teams working high on route: four members and too much for them to carry up equipment for so many camps. So C3 tent moved up as C5, so when 2nd summit team went up, technical difficulty made them unable get to C5 and they had to biv. Plus 2nd team acclimatizations differed: 1 member from Dhaulagiri I top but 1 member only 2 nights in C3. Rested C5 one day and 15th to top. Descending Kukuczka fell 4m and decided to biv at 7300m and not take chance in dark. Biv very hard so spent 16th in C5 and 17th in C3. E Face very dangerous from many avalanches; S Ridge is very difficult.


Kukuczka:

Arrived Dhaulagiri I ABC, summited
Left Dhaulagiri I BC 25 Jan
Arrived KTM 2 Feb
Flew to Lukla 8 Feb
Arrived Cho Oyu BC 9 Feb
Summited Cho Oyu and bived

Scaled his 7th 8000er, Dhaulagiri, 21 Jan 1988. If successful on Cho Oyu, will be first climber to conquer 2nd 8000er in Nepal in such short period of time after his 1st and first to do so anywhere in winter.


Tourism - 16 Feb 85

Kukuczka and Heinrich contacted BC at 2:00 pm and said they reached top yesterday very late so bived at 7920m last night. Today at 11:00 am reached C5 and will stay there tonight. Tomorrow to BC stayed on top 20 minutes, hoisted flags of Poland, Nepal and Germany and took many photos. At sunset had many beautiful sights. Weather cold (-25 degrees C) and strong wind. Kukuczka slight frostbite in fingers.

All leave BC 18th.


Shrestha, Tourism - 16 Feb 85

Kukuczka and Heinrich summited on 15 Feb at 5:30 pm and contacted by walkie-talkie to BC on top. Very cold, strong wind; took photos; will contact again from C5 they said.

At 8:00 am today they were spotted 100m above C6 descending and BC awaiting contact yesterday biv between C6 and top. Today sunny at BC, -4 degrees C there. Summit party took long to top because of mist.


Shrestha, Tourism - 15 Feb 85

Last contact 1:30 pm when 150m below summit, left C5 7:00 am for summit.


Banskota - 14 Feb 85

Berbek and Pawlikowski one coming to BC today. Were in C2 last night. Kukuczka and Heinrich bived at 7550m last night near darkness. Arrive C5 at 10:00 am today, summit bid tomorrow.


Banskota - 12 Feb 85

Yesterday C5 7600m SE Face at 5:30 pm by Berbeka and Pawlikowski. Two started towards summit 6:00 today and reached 200m below top by 11:00 am. Kukuczka and Heinrich C3 to C4 today.