원정 개요

BC 25/10 4900m
C1 27/10 5500m
C2 01/11 6100m
Smt 02/11 by Frederic Faure, Grezat, Beroujon, Feuillie, Riten Jangbu Sherpa,
Mingma Sherpa, Lhakpa Sherpa at 1 pm.

They wanted to ski down from summit initially, but snow conditions were only good from 6000-6400m. Generally no good conditions for ski descent, maybe better in spring season.

Started from C2 at 2 am, got to top at 1 pm, stayed on top for 15 minutes. Very good weather, no wind, they were lucky with the weather. It was very cold on summit, maybe -27° Celsius. After summit down to C2 (arrival at 4 pm). On 3 Nov down to BC.

Grezat got frostbite on summit day at two toes of both feet. He was evacuated by helicopter on 4 Nov from BC to KTM. He was in hospital for 5 days, no bad consequences expected. They used Gamow bag for Grezat three times before helicopter arrived.

Monique Faure turned around (highpoint: 6000m) because of the cold conditions on the mountain and fatigue. It was very cold every day, average temperature at BC maybe -15° Celsius.

Daniel Calegari had problems with his eye; he was evacuated by helicopter on 29 Oct from C1 to KTM with his wife Anne. She was okay, but joined him on evacuation.

Ascent via NW Ridge (maybe 45 degrees), a bit more difficult than normal route, but still straightforward. Descent via normal route. BC was the same as the one for normal route.

Team left BC on 6 Nov trekking to Juphal.

Climbing route: NW Ridge on ascent, NE Face (normal) route on descent.

Oxygen: taken for emergency, not used.

Fixed rope: 50m (steep part just before C1)
Records: FA via NW Ridge (?)

Members :
Frederic Faure (S)
Monique Faure (6000m)
Yves Beroujon (S)
Gilbert Grezat (S)
Daniel Calegari (5500m)
Anne Calegari (5500m)
Claude Feuillie (S)

Hired :
Riten Jangbu Sherpa, 18/05/83, born in Solukhumbu, but citizen ID: Sindhupalchok
Mingmar Sherpa, 24/11/1989, Taksindu-4, Solukhumbu
Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa, 23/08/1989, Taksindu-5, Solukhumbu