원정 개요

BC 15/10 3600m near Dana Khola and some houses for yak men
ABC 18/10 5000m located on glacier moraine
C1 26/10 5700m at safe location from rockfall on the snow
C2 27/10 6300m a bit to the right of route
Smt 28/10 by Lonchinskiy, Koshelenko at 4:30 pm.
C3 28/10 6500m (after summit) on summit ridge
C4 29/10 6100m (in descent) in icefall under a big boulder

Ascent in alpine style, no Sherpa support. Traversed Phungi Himal, ascent on SE Face, descent via West Ridge.

Long day of climbing from C1 to C2 (20 pitches, difficult ice, 60-80 degrees). Weather turned on 27 Oct, quite foggy, a lot of snow, cold. Thunderbolts and electricity in the air. On summit day they started from C2 at 8 am. Some pieces of ice fell on Lonchinskiy between C2 and summit, damaging his helmet. Big cornices on summit ridge. They prepared their bivouac on summit ridge before going to highest point. Reached summit at 4:30 pm. Stayed on top for 15 minutes, weather was bad, foggy and windy. Then went to bivouac nearby. Next day traversed summit and descended on West Ridge. 29 Oct they slept in bivouac in icefall under a big boulder, safe location, at approximately 6100m. Reached bivouac place at 2 pm. Bad weather forced them to stop climbing. On 30 Oct went down to ABC, same as on ascent. On 31 Oct to BC.

Team left BC on 1 Nov.

Climbing route: ascent via SE Face, descent via West Ridge.

Oxygen: Not taken not used.