원정 개요

BC 09/10 5100m
Biv 18/10 at col at 6150m
Smt 19/10 of PANN by Max Bonniot and Pierre Sancier at 9 am.

The 2 members of French GMHM first intended the West Face of Lunag Ri, notably attempted in the past 2 years by Conrad Anker and David Lama. Since the conditions there were quite bad, the pair decided to try for the 2009 Schaffter route on Pangbuk NE Face instead, knowing nothing about the controversy raised by the 2013 ascenders (USA, Wright, Adamson) in AAJ ("Purgation"). From the 6150m col where they bivied, they were stucked to discover no equipment remnants at all, when the face's hard sections below had been equipped and the main difficulties occurred in fact straight after the col, on the SE Ridge beginning.

The pictures taken by the French on their official summit compared with the 2009 team clearly prove now that the 2009 team indeed stopped at the 6150m col, as anticipated by the Americans.

Route called "Tolerance zero" (1100m/ED/WI5/80°)

Fixed rope: 1 pitch fixed straight above the col 6150m.

Team left BC on 28 Oct.

Route: 2009 Schaffter attempt to Col 6150m

Oxygen: Not taken, not used.