원정 개요

BC at NSW of point 5456m, start of NW Ridge
C1 on NW Ridge
C2 before and below point 6686m
C3 on ridge beyond point 6686m
C4 at north side of ridge.

From BC route went round to north side of point 5456m and up side of NW Ridge. No C1 because too much of wind. 4 times tried to go to W Summit but very strong cold winds defeated 3 bids. On 4th did reach W Summit. Very difficult last section to W Summit. Fixed 4800m rope total from little below C1 to 200m above C4 where ropes finished and used climbing ropes. Climbed from C4 at 7 am; summited 14:05, C4 19 hrs. 23rd Dec 2nd attack from C2 by 2 members but again strong wind and Sherpas not willing to try, so reached only 200m above C4 and gave up. Climb finished and all members went down.

Frostbite Bae Hyun-Chul black fingers; same for Chun Bong-Gon and Kim Hwa-Gon deep frostbite and will loose finger tips. Phinzo Sherpa also same serious frostbite.


Winter Ascent and Tragedy by Cho Hyung-Gyu

The party planned to climb the mountain through west ridge. They set up C1 at 5800m on Dec 3rd. They advanced mixed snow and rock in dangerous section and then set up C2 at 6800m. The weather deteriorating and they were storm-bound for 4 days.

The partly led on the difficult route and fixed a rope in the long and steep snow slopes to C3. Finally, they set up two box tents at C3 on spot of 7400m on 16th.

It was changed to the worst weather on the summit day but 1st attack party started to the summit. However they backed without moving more advance because there appeared the crevasse on the upper plateau below the summit ridge. Severe winner winds and considerable snowfall defeated their 1st attack party.

They revised all plans and entered the 2nd attack on 22nd. The member Oh Sei-Chul, Chun Bong-Gon, Kim Hwa-Gon and Bae Hyun-Chul departed C4 for the summit at 07:30. 4 members reached cornice below the summit. They climbed and at last got to the top at 14:05. Actually they succeed first winter ascent of Nuptse West. Even all members were unexperienced with the Himalayan mountains though they have achieved a real remarkable success.

They had on epic descent. The team described the struggle as "Physically and mentally very demanding."

On Dec 23 the 2nd attack party had left C4 for the summit but they evacuated because the strong wind and poor visibility.

4 summiters and 2nd attack party come back BC on Dec 24.

3 members of summiters had to cut all hand and foot due to severe frostbite.