원정 개요

BC at Khumbu Glacier halfway between point 5456m & west of Khumbu Glacier
C1 near start of NW Ridge northwest point 6686m
C2 on ridge before point 6686m
C3 on ridge just before point 6686m
C4 on ridge before NW Summit.

Between C2 and C3 very narrow ridge and very difficult climb technically. Vertical crossing with deep powder snow covering cornices. Before C2 snow and 200m mixed rock and ice just below C2. C3->C4 very hard (difficult), very steep rocks and snow but good snow. Above C4 not so steep as before (and as picture shows) and only technical difficulty is very narrow last ridge and soft snow in places. Wind was problem from 10 Oct and had to go back to C4. 2 times tried for top in next couple of days and down to C2. Total 5 km of fixed rope along this long ridge because some inexperiencd Sherpas. No time to go to main summit: too far, too windy, not enough gear.

15th Oct - cloudy, strong west wind
19th Oct - clear, no wind
20th Oct - no wind
21st Oct - strong north wind across Lho La; lost 1 tent at C4

Climbed to NW Summit only; no attempt made on main summit.