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Kunii & Koto - 23 May 77

All members in KTM. Tamada has frostbite 3 toes but will heal. From C5 7350m. Others Ok.

1st summit attack Kato and Tamada 9 May but reached 7670m above C5 and C3 more fixed ropes of 150m to NW Peak (70m vertical), but no biv equipment and time limit; reached 5 pm and arrived back C5 7 pm.

2nd attack started 10 May left C5 5:30 am, Kunii and Jambu Sherpa. Reached 7550m biv half snowhole they made with tools they brought and stayed in biv tent. Took 2 hours make hole - very cold and strong wind, no sleep.

11 May started from biv 7:30 am. 2 hrs strong wind then after that wind died and sunshine. 11:45 am Kunii stood on NW Peak 7745m which end of their pioneer route up NW Ridge. Did not traverse to main summit: long route one peak in between and knife snow ridge. All members very tired and no support: for main peak 1 or 2 more camps required.

Our main plan was to climb NW Ridge and this, coupled by very famous route, very difficult knife ice ridge (thought snow ridge). 1/2 hour on snow peak taking photos and cine photos; put Japanese-Nepalese club flag on top.

3rd summit team Shimura and Honjo. 11 May left C4 6900m, but not reached C5 because exhaustion. Met 1st summit party midway between C4 and C5 and Kato saw 3rd party not in good condition and ordered back and climbing finished.

BC on Khumbu Glacier very near Everest BC. Leave KTM after 1 week.


Jha, MFA - 12 May 77

Assistant leader Osamu Kunii and Jambu Sherpa left C5 10 May to make final assault NW Peak. Halted at 15:30 pm at 7550m and spent night there. 11 May at 07:30 hours started further and reached NW Peak, 7745m. Assistant leader on top first at 11:45 am and Jambu Sherpa top 12:00 hours - hoisted Nepal and Japanese flags on summit. Did not use oxygen while climbing. Sufficient space for 2 persons sit on summit. Left summit at 12:15 hours and reached C5 16:30 hours although gentle breeze blowing, weather fine.

All members excellent health.

1st conquest of NW Peak. Expedition abandoned attempt to reach main peak; according message leader they are returning to KTM in few days.


John, MFA - 10 May 77

C5 7400m 8 May 18:00 hours leader and Tamada in C5 on 8 May. Leader Kato hopeful of making summit assault within 5 days. All members well and weather fine.


Bhattarai, MFA - 21 March 77

Nuptse expedition reached BC site 16 March and at 5 pm on 17 March established camp at 5200m on Khumbu Glacier. All members and Sherpas well.


Kato - 12 Feb 77

Do not climb through Khumbu Icefall; go past Gorak Shep to foot of Icefall with BC at 5300 feet nearer Nuptse then Everest BC. No avalanche problem this side Nuptse.

Climb Nuptse via NW Ridge South new route

6 members leave KTM 17 Feb walking including leader
2 leave KTM 23 Feb fly with baggage
Establish BC 15 March; 10 days acclimatization climbing around Thyangboche, Pheriche, etc.
Summit at end April/early May

Most difficult part between C3-C4 because very sharp ridge indeed here: all ridges really sharp.

1 sirdar Tsange Sherpa
3 Sherpas