원정 개요

BC at Pangpema
C1 at same site as Czech's C1 (near boulders on far left side below 1st icefield)
C2 in basin towards top from icefall
C3 at Czech's C3 (2nd icefield)
Biv at halfway up rock band
C4 at top of rock band.

Stayed away from ridge: jet stream used to roar off that ridge. Would have liked to go to it from technical point of view. Used just two 250-foot ropes in all the climb for fixing route.

Whole mountain was glistering in ice, rock hard. Very highest snowfall but fierce winds which stopped progress in 2nd half of Dec.

Chandler died of cerebral edema. Bremer-Kamp and Tamang serious frostbite of fingers and toes: Tamang should not have been taken so high and Bremer-Kamp's frostbite due to job of getting him down alive (she was taken because he was eager to go up and it was useful having another load carrier).


David Peterson

Bremer-Kamp had frostbite, will lose at least all fingers and parts of toes. She in hospital here, she ultimately requires surgery.

We were all set for the summit "it was a gorgeous day." 15th Chris didn't show any signs of call see. We came up from 24,000 ft camp and we carried rather late night before. At 6:00 made biv in cave at about 26,000. Was a horrible night - "always is at that altitude." Chris was melting all water and thus getting less oxygen than others. Next 8:00 am late start: Chris sitting, not putting on crampons, being real slow inside cave. Stove was on but not burning. Lethargic - felt better outside and said would feel better if he just lay down. She sat besides him for a while in cave and then needed go out; then started getting white splotches on nose and Chris said better go down.

Chris said its such good weather we could go for the summit. This was summit day. Chris: "I can't see I'm going blind" and Cherie losing peripheral vision herself. Cherie and Mangal tried to get him up and he couldn't walk. By time got his crampons and roped up it was 1:00 pm. We fell in bringing him down on his feet. Chris wrapped [?] himself several times. Got down about 1000 ft at about 5:30 pm and settled down for night in sleeping bag on 3 platforms in snow and Mangal to brew water for Chris, tried with ice-axe belay but slipped down slope a little. Got him back up but got restless, rolling over and standing up on 35 degree slope and would have have slid all the way. Chris said I need help and had his hand outside the bag and he stopped moving and thrashing about; "used his lost little bit of energy."

He wasn't breathing, died about 8 that night. Cheri's feet frozen several days before but ignored; hands froze in rescue. Mangal's hand became bad the night of 15th. As with Cherie, using bare hands next day to set Chris's body sitting up in a hole so he could see view, his pack beside him. Then left at about 8:00 am and moved very slowly down. Mangal wanted to die and kept sitting down, critically dehydrated and Cherie hallucinating coming down glacier on 19th.

Could have gone to top on 15th. Next 4 days weather was so good - we were so weak, just like kittens. "Not allowed us to live - it just chose to take Chris." "The cerebral edema took me by surprise though I knew risks of such small party." Took Mangal high in order to help got supplies up high and he keen to go high.

Would go back to him? If I could go back with Chris I would - next year.


Shrestha, Tourism - 26 Jan 85

Chris Chandler, Cherie Louise Bremer-Kamp and Sirdar Mangal Singh Tamang resumed climb on 7 Jan. After reaching 7925m on 15 Jan at 13:00 hours, Chandler suddenly got brain swelling and they had to descend. While Chandler brought down by others he died at about 25,000 ft. Other 2 got frostbite on hands and legs. Left body where he died and return BC 19 Jan at 22:00 hours.