원정 개요

BC at Rongbuk Glacier
C3 below North Col on West Face of Changtse
C4 below North col
C5 on NE Ridge
C6 on NE Ridge below steps.

12 Aug summit attempt by 3 Nepalese members, Jordi Canals and Jordi Camprubi. Reached about 8600m at beginning of 2nd Step but turned back in snowfall and were tired, down to C3. Another party got no higher than C5 when bad weather (snow) and altitude turned them back. All down to BC.

22 Aug started up again and reached C3. 25 Aug to C4, 26 Aug to C5 and 27 Aug to C6 and 28 Aug to top by 3 Nepalese, Carles Valles, Antoni Sors, Oscar Cadiach with support team to C5 and these supporters and Nawang Yonden to C6. Coming down 4 summiters C6 after 12 hours from C6. No further attempt because too much snow.

Sors toes frostbitten badly. Ang Karma fell 70-80m near 2nd Step but not really hurt 12 Aug. Valles bad altitude sickness from summit (needed oxygen at ABC) and used discarded 1/2 bottle during descent to ABC.

Valles in KTM 16 Oct 1990 said 3 Spanish summiters did not use oxygen at all.

14 Spanish members but 1 was only BC Mgr after getting sick at ABC. Leader was Conrad Blanch. Ernic Lucas left early to return to his work before climbing finished.


Tamaya, Spain (Italian Makalu expedition) - 15 Aug 85

Catalans reached 8000m in early Aug turned back by bad weather, lot of snow hope to go up again route, he doesn't know.