원정 개요

BC 02/09 4750m
C1 07/09 5800m
C2 13/09 6200m
C3 20/09 6700m
C4 24/09 7400m
HPt 24/09 at C4 by Gilbert, Brandin, Lakpa Bhote.

The whole team reached C3 on 20 Sept with the intention to summit a few days later; however, the weather was bad and they stayed there for two nights. On the night of 23 Sept they tried to go for the summit; however, after about 20 minutes they turned back due to bad weather.

On 24 Sept, the whole team made the decision to move to C4. Gilbert, Brandin and Lakpa Bhote arrived at C4 in the early evening. Harvey suffered from frostbite on his left hand and decided to turn back at about 7300m at about 8 pm. He had called for assistance on the radio and Lakpa Bhote descended to him and then both descended to C3, where they arrived at 2 am on 25 Sept. Gilbert and Brandin stayed at C4 for the night.

On 25 Sept at about 7 am after having spoken to Harvey at 6 am (he sounded absolutely fine), Gilbert and Brandin descended to C3 to be with Harvey and assist him with his frostbite and reunite the team. In the meantime, Lakpa Bhote and Harvey had already left C3 to go to C2. When Gilbert and Brandin reached C3 and did not find the Harvey and Lakpa Bhote, they used the radio to find out where they were. Surendra, the cook, radioed back from BC telling them that Harvey had passed away at the bottom of the fixed ropes about 500m above C2 (6700m).

According to Lakpa Bhote, he had helped Harvey to move down the fixed ropes as he was having problems with his frostbitten hand, and at the bottom of the ropes, Harvey suddenly collapsed and never gained consciousness. He had died immediately at about 8:30 am.

Gilbert and Brandin descended to where Lakpa Bhote and Harvey were. They pitched a tent right where he had collapsed and put Harvey’s body in it. Gilbert, Brandin and Lakpa Bhote descended to BC, where they arrived at 7 pm on 25 Sept.

On 26 Sept, a helicopter picked up Harvey and took him to Kathmandu. His body will be flown back to the UK at around 1 Oct.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C3 to high point to C3 by members
From C3 to high point by Lakpa Bhote.

Sherpa:
Lhakpa/Lakpa Bhote, Hatiya-2, Makalu-Barun, 25/10/1984