원정 개요

BC at Pheriche
ABC at point 5160m and 5140m southeast of Tawoche Glacier on SE Face.

Koreans late arriving KTM and then bad weather prevented flights to Khumbu; arrived BC Jan 3 days after Japanese members had started climb. 5 Jan Japanese had fatal accident and stopped their climbing.

Koreans resumed climb, went to BC 10 Jan. ABC occupied by Hee, Kim and Lee plus Ang Phurba. C1 only Heo and Ang Phurba, who went up small SE Face to SE Ridge and up final very steep rock. Fixed 600m rope as they climbed above point where Japanese members fixed rope ended to top: total 1600m fixed rope on most of entire route from ABC. Very difficult rock climbing, Heo and Ang Phurba say.

No accidents amongst Koreans as per Japanese party report of 14 Jan (Ohnishi).

4 Jan to 5600m below ridge. 5 Jan biv 5800m by H. Nakamura, Irisawa and Morizane. This highest point reached by Japanese members. Heo went later to mountain to try solo ascent but difficult route.

Korean members arrived Nepal late, were not all members he had met, did not bring equipment and mountain food (used gear brought by Ohnishi).

Kakomoto fell from point 10m below SE Ridge where steep ice met very soft snow. Fell 800m down steep section. Morizane rope burn on left hand.