원정 개요

BC 11/10 4700m
C1 15/10 5800m
C2 16/10 6200m
C3 17/10 6600m
C4 18/10 7300m
Smt 19/10 by Gao Xiao-Dan, Nima Gyalzen, Lakpa Chhiri at 8:30 am.

Team faced a lot of snowfall. A large part of the fixed ropes were completely buried under the snow, team had a hard time digging out the ropes and had to fix new ropes themselves at some parts. They ascended quickly, Nima and Gao were well acclimatized as they have been to Makalu just before. Summit day started at 1 am, summit at 8:30 am and back to C4 at 11 am. They stayed on the summit for 30 minutes, strong winds on the top, but beautiful views.

Oxygen: taken by Lakpa Chhiri from C4 to summit and back to C4.

On 19 Oct Lakpa Chhiri got AMS on descent from summit to C4. Two Sherpas ascended from C3 to rescue him and brought him down to C3. From there he and the rest of the team were evacuated by helicopter to KTM on 20 Oct. He's in Grande Hospital now undergoing treatment. He is expected to recover fully within a few days.

Fixed rope: intermittent on whole route.

Sherpas:
Nima Gyalzen (director of Sherpa Kangri)
Lakpa Chhiri, Dolakha, 14/10/1984