원정 개요

BC 13/09 4750m
C1 16/09 5600m
C2 17/09 6250m
C3 18/09 6900m
C4 19/09 7400m
Smt 20/09 by Chatur Tamang and Akkaev at 7:30 am
Smt 24/09 by Lhakpa Nuru, Lhakpa Gyalgen, Morneva, Lhakpa Tsheri and
Pasang Tendi at 9 am
Smt 26/09 by Aristov, Dolgov, Glushkov, Chermov, Dergachev, Panov, Afanasiev,
Eliseev, Pugovkin, Lazo, Zadokhin, Roshko, Tomov, Danyalov, Chao,
Necheporenko and Kadoshnikov at 9 am
Smt 27/09 by Pasang and Sukhanov at 4 am, Pasang Chhiri, Nosa, Pozdnii and
Pavlov at 9:30 am.

Summit 20/09:
Left C4 at 12:30 am. They were alone. They spent about 1 hour on the summit, then descended to C1, where they arrived at 3:30 pm.

Summit 24/09:
Left C4 at 11 pm on 23/09. The snow was deep. Lhakpa Gyalgen did most of the trail breaking. They had to pull out the fixed rope as it was buried in deep snow. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit. It was very windy. They descended to C3, where they arrived at 5 pm. Morneva suffered from slight HAPE. She was very tired and injected some Dexamethasone which made her feel better immediately. On 25/09, they descended to BC.

Summit 26/09:
Left C3 at 11 pm on 25/09. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C3, where they arrived at around 3 pm.

Summit 27/09:
Sukhanov, Nosa, Pasang Tshering and Pasang left C3 at 7 pm on 26/09. Pozdnii and Pavlov left C4 at midnight. It was cold. Nosa had started without oxygen, however, it got too cold and he put on oxygen at C4. His feet were very cold and he stopped between C4 and the summit for two hours to warm up, which was probably a bad idea. They descended to C3. Nosa and Sukhanov descended to BC. Sukhanov reached 3 pm, Nosa at about 7 pm. Nosa has suffered severe frostbite on both feet.

No summits:
Popenyshev reached C3 (not feeling well)
Skvortsov reached C3 (not feeling well)
Baranov reached C3 (stomach infection)
Romanov reached C3 (not feeling well)
Krut reached C3 (unable to sleep and abandoned expedition)
Demenko reached C3 (high altitude problems)
Prilepa reached C2 (suffered from high blood pressure)
Kondrakov reached C3 (too tired)
Sukhanova did not intend to climb (not on permit)

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members and Sherpas apart from those
listed below
Nosa intended to climb without oxygen, but started at C4 as he had frostbite
on his fingers (C4 to top to C3)
No Oxygen:
Airstov, Eliseev, Pugovkin, Lazo, Roshkov, Tomov, Danyalov, Ma Chao,
Necheporenko, Kadoshnikov, Puzdnij, Pavlov

Frostbite:
Nosa frostbite on both feet
Necheporenko frostbite on both thumbs

Sherpas:
Pasang Tendi, Yilajung, 30/07/1988
Lhakpa Nuru, Thami, 22/11/1980
Lhakpa Gyalzen, Thami, 31/08/1982
Lhakpa Tshering, Phurte, 16/02/1991
Pasang Sherpa, Lelep-8, Gyabla, Taplejung, 27/04/1978
Pasang Chhiri, Namche, 22/08/1993

Expedition was divided into two groups:

Group 1: Group 2:
Ivan Aristov (Leader) Oxana Morneva (Leader)
Nikolai Kadoshnikov Ivan Tomov
Yuri Panov Taras Pozdnii
Igor Popenyshev Chao Ma
Nikolai Skyortsov Oleksandr Pavlov
Andrei Glushkov Iurii Sukhanov
Sergey Baranov Polina Sukhanova
Alexander Eliseev Valdimir Zadoknin
Igor Romanov Asset Danyalov
Oleg Afanasiev Vitalii Lazo
Andrei Dergachev Anton Pugovkin
Viacheslav Krut Aznaur Akkaev
Roman Demenko Dmytro Necheporenko
Pavel Chernov Volodymir Roshko
Evgenii Prilepa Yaroslav Nosa
Gennady Dolgov Oleg Kondrakov