원정 개요

BC at 3500m towards start of Myagdi Khola SE of point 5981m and east of ridge
ABC at 4800m Tsaurabong Glacier west of ridge
C2 at 6000m South Face
C3A at 6500m South Face
C3B at 7000m at East Ridge
C4 near East Ridge.

Moved C3 5000m up because 1st site too far from summit. Made C4 at 7200m on 4th May but now avalanche broke tent that night and 2 occupants to C3 and on 5th repaired fixed ropes. On 12th May 3 summiters made push to top from C3 at 4:30 am and reached summit at 3:30-4:00 pm (on 11th May Kim had started for top but not in good condition and returned to C3). When on top on 12th weather bad; wind and snow and hail. 3 men descended. 30 minutes lapse between 1st and 3rd - Kim, in middle, disappeared. E Ridge very steep and north side sheer drop. Ang Dorje say this rock ridge was difficult section with steep ice just above C3.

Kim Sung-Gyu disappeared during descent from summit. Sherpas did not see what happened (snow falling greatly limited visability). He simply did not turn up at C3. This only casualty. Ang Dorje thinks Kim fell just above C3 about 7:30 pm.