원정 개요

Seven Summit Treks Manaslu expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-4 climbers each). Seven Summits provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


William Sayer (Australia)

Appr: Trekked via Larkya La
Camps: BC(12/09,4750m),C1(15/09,5850m),C2(18/09,6300m),C3(24/09,6800m),
C4(25/09,7400m),Smt(26/09)
Left: 28/09 from BC and 29/09 by heli from Samagaon
Hired: 1
Term: Success on 26/09 at 6:45 am by Sayer and Ang Dawa.

Summit team left C4 at 12:30 am and summited at 6:45 am, and stayed about 20 minutes on the summit. They were alone for about 5 minutes and then four other people arrived. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 5 pm. On 27 Sept to BC.

Oxygen: Taken and used from 7200m to top to C4 by Sayer and Ang Dawa.

Sherpa:
Ang Dawa, Kharikhola, 18/11/84


Mehdi Gholipour (Iran)
Saeid Mirzaei (Iran)

Appr: By heli to Samagaon
Camps: BC(12/09,4750m),C1(15/09,5800m),C2(16/09,6400m),C3(24/09,6700m),
C4(25/09,7400m),Smt(26/09)
Left: 28/09 by heli from BC
Hired: 0
Term: Success on 26/09 at 10 am by Mirzaei.
Oxygn: Not used, not taken.

Mirzaei left C4 at 5 am. Straighforward climb. He reached the cornice, but stopped about 20m short of the summit as there were too many people at the end of the fixed rope. He strayed for about 5 minutes on the summit and descended to C3, where he arrived at 2 pm. On 27 Sept back at BC.

Gholipour reached C3 on 17 Sept on the acclimatization rotation. When the team reached BC again after their rotation, Gholipour felt that he had some problems with his heart. He flew back to Kathmandu from Samagaon on 24 Sept. He was checked out, but was Ok. He left for Iran on 26 Sept.



Aparna Kumar (India)

Name: Indian on Manaslu
Appr: By heli to Samagaon
Camps: BC(11/09,4800m),C1(15/09,5700m),C2(22/09,6400m),C3(23/09,6800m),
C4(24/09,7450m),Smt(25/09)
Left: 27/09
Hired: 2
Term: Success on 25/09 at 10 am by Kumar and Ang Temba Sherpa

Kumar and Ang Temba left C4 at 4:30 am, summited at 10 am, stayed 15 minutes, then descended to C2.

Chhyo Nurbu Sherpa stopped at C3.

Oxygen: Used from C3 to summit to C3 by Kumar and Ang Temba.


Csaba Varga (Hungary)

Appr: Arughat->Samagaon
Camps: BC(11/09,4900m),C1(13/09,5800m),C3(17/09,6800m),C4(25-26/09,7400m),
Smt(27/09)
Left: 29/09 to Samagaon, then by heli same day
Hired: 0
Term: Success on 27/09 by Varga
Oxygn: Not used, not taken.

Varga started at 2:33 am from C4, summited at 9:45 am, down and rested 2-3h at C4, then back to C3 at c.7 pm. Next day went down to BC, reached at 4-5 pm.

Accidents: light frostbite to each big fingertoe (not bad, superficial).


Flor Graciela Cuenca Blas (Peru)

Name: Peruvian on Manaslu
Hired: 0
Oxy: None
Term: Success on 28/09
Oxygn: Not used, not taken.


Enrico Cambini (Italy)

Name: Italian on Manaslu Autumn 2017
Appr: Heli to Samagaon
Camps: BC(19/09,4750m),C1(21/09,5700m),C3(26/09,6800m),C4(27/09,7450m),Smt(28/09)
Left: Left BC on 29 Sept
Hired: 1
Term: Success on 28/09 at 5:15 am by Cambini and Chhepal Sherpa

Cambini and Chhepal set out from C4 on 28 Sept at 12:57 am, summited at 5:15 am. Nice weather, cold, but not freezing. Both descended to BC arriving at 7 pm.

Oxygen:
From 7200m to summit to 6000m by Cambini
From C4 to summit to C4 by Chhepal

Sherpa:
Chhepal, 34 yrs, ANN1 summiter


Theo Plantier (France)
Simon Vicent Garcia (France)
David Henrion (France)
Ingrid Christine Menet (France)

Name: French on Manaslu 2017
Appr: Larkya La
Camps: BC(15/09,4750m),C1(17/09,5800m),C2(18/09,6400m),C3(25/09,6750m),
C4(26/09,7400m),Smt(27/09)
Left: 28/09 by heli from Samagaon
Hired: 2
Term: Success on 27/09 by Garcia at 7 am, Henrion at 6:43 am, Menet at 6:43 am,
Mingma Tenji at 6:43am

Summit team and Plantier and Dawa Finchok left C4 at midnight. Good conditions. At about 8050m Plantier realized that his fingers felt wooden and when his Sherpa Dawa Finchok saw his fingers, they turned back to C4. Everyone else carried on. They did not go all the way to the end of the fixed ropes as the ropes were too crowded. About 20 horizontal metres to the summit (should be fine).

They spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they met up with Plantier. When they realized how badly frostbitten Plantier's fingers were they descended to BC, where they arrived at about 6 pm. The following day they left BC by helicopter to Samagaon and then to Kathmandu.

Frostbite: Plantier frostbite on right hand on two fingers; left hand on one finger; right foot on two toes.

Oxygen:
From 8000m to the top by Menet; from C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas;
Plantier from 8050m to C4.

Sherpas:
Dawa Finchok Sherpa, Lamabagar, Dolakha, 16/07/1984
Mingma Tenji, Makalu-5


Lu Chung-Han (Taiwan)
Chang Yuan-Chih (Taiwan)

Name: 2017 Taiwanese Manaslu 8156m Expedition 2017
Appr: Arughat by jeep and then heli to Samagaon
Camps: BC(10/09,4750m),C1(12/09,5550m),C2(15/09,6300m),C3(16/09,6750m),Smt(26/09)
Left: 28/09 by heli from Samagaon
Hired: 0
Term: Success by Lu at 10 am.

On 25 Sept both climbers set out for the summit at 8:30 pm. Conditions and weather good – a bit windy. When they reached 7300m at about midnight, Chang realized he was too cold and tired and turn back to C3. Lu continued and reached just below the summit at 9:30 am and had to wait for about half an hour for the final 30 meters to the summit. He reached the end of the fixed rope at 10 am. He descended to C3 where he arrived at 4:30 pm. Chang was still there and team stayed the night. On 27 Sept both climbers to BC.

Oxygen: Not taken, not used.


Hector Ponce De Leon (Mexico)
Daniel Araiza Chavez (Mexico)
Eduardo Saenz Aguilar-Alvarez (Mexico)
Eduardo Saenz (Mexico)

Appr: Helicopter to Samagaon
Camps: BC(13/09,4750m),C1(18/09,5800m),C2(24/09,6300m),C3(25/09,6900m),
Smt(26/09,01/10)
Left: 28/09 and 02/10
Hired: 2
Term: Success 26/09 by Eduardo Saenz Aguilar-Alvarez, Pasang Norbu at 4:45 am
Success 01/10 by Araiza Chavez, Pemba (in 20 hours, 10 minutes) at 12:15 pm

Saenz Aguilar-Alvarez and Pasang left C3 at 7 pm on 25 Sept. They reached C4 at 11:30 pm, stopped there for 10 minutes and continued to the summit. They spent about 5 minutes on the summit and as it was very windy, they quickly descended to BC, where they arrived at 2:30 pm.

Saenz Eduardo reached C3 on 25 Sept. As his son and Pasang were going too fast for him, he decided to abandon his summit attempt and descended to C2, where he spent the night. On 26 Sept he descended to BC.

Araiza Chavez and Ponce de Leon left BC at 4:05 pm on 30 Sept. They reached C1 2-1/2 hours later at 6:35 pm. They rested for 25 minutes and left C1 again at 7 pm. Another two hours to C2 (9 pm). Araiza Chavez reached C3 at 11:30 pm, Ponce de Leon reached at 11:50 pm. They had a short rest and joined Pemba, who had been waiting for them at C3 since midday. Araiza Chavez and Pemba left C3 again at 2:30 am on 1 Oct. Pemba was using oxygen. They reached C4 at 6:30 am, rested for 30 minutes and left at 7 am. They both reached the summit at 12:15 pm.

Ponce de Leon left C3 at 6:20 am. He reached C4 in less than four hours at about 10:20 am. When he reached 7850m at about 1:30 pm he turned back. He had been feeling weak all the time due to a stomach infection. He descended to C4 where he met up again with Araiza Chavez at about 4 pm. Pemba had already descended to C3 and Ponce de Leon and Araiza Chavez continued also to C3, where they arrived at about 6 pm. Following day from C3 to BC.

Saenz team left BC on 28 Sept by helicopter; Araiza Chavez and Ponce de Leon left on 4 Oct.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by Saenz Aguilar-Alvarez and Pasang
Pemba used oxygen from C3 to summit to C3
Ponce de Leon and Araiza Chavez did not use oxygen.

Sherpas:
Pasang Nurbu, Makalu-5, 28/05/1990
Pemba Sherpa


The rope-fixing team consisting of four Sherpas from Seven Summit Treks:

Nga Tashi
Damai Sarki
Karma Gyalzen
Dawa Chhiring

They reached the summit from 10 to 10:30 am on 18 Sept. They were assisted by Phurha Tashi from the Himex team who reached the summit at 9:45 am.