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French Makalu Autumn 2017

Makalu · 2017 · 가을 (3) · France

원정 개요

ABC 18/09 5650m
C1 20/09 6180m
C2 23-24/09 6620m
C3 28-29/09 7500m (27/09 at C2 straight from ABC)
C4 30/09-01/10 7650m
HPt 01/10 8070m by David Lavie, Mehdi Van Haver at 9 am.

Summit day (1 Oct) for Lavie and Van Haver:
Started at 0:30 am from C4
High point at 9 am at 8070m (altimeter measurement)

François and Pascal stopped at C4, started one day after Mehdi and David. Stayed the 1 Oct at C4 with others. On the 2 Oct, didn't go further, as it had snowed in the night, the route wouldn't be equipped to the summit, so they came back down with the group.

Chinese and Singaporean Sherpas fixed almost whole route to Makalu La, this between C1 and C2, then from C4 to high point. French fixed no rope.

Lavie and Van Haver mentioned that Gao Xiao-Dan may have used oxygen sleeping during the night of 30 Sept, as they saw empty oxygen bottles in it.

Climb abandoned on 1 Oct due to exhaustion, deep snow (up to halfway between knees and hips, climb rate of 50m/h that day).

Team left BC on 4 Oct.

Hired:
[Kanchhi] Maya Tamang (wife of Pemba Dorje Sherpa), aimed to be first Nepali
lady to climb Makalu, up to 7650m.
Pemba Dorje Sherpa ("speed Everest"), up to 7650m.
Both Pemba Dorje Sherpa and his wife Maya Tamang didn't go further than C4
after being informed by Nima Gyalzen (with Gao) the French couloir wouldn't
be fixed.
Dakipa Sherpa, up to 8070m with Lavie and Van Haver.
Kami Nuru Sherpa, up to 8100m with Lavie and Van Haver (was in front of them
and Dakipa, putting up the tracks; when saw all 3 were descending, he
stopped and joined them downwards).

  • 내부 원정 ID9688
  • 원본 EXPIDMAKA17301
  • 대장Francois Solignac
  • 루트 (Route)NW Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8100m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유산악 상태 (5)

참가자 8명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Francois Jean SolignacFranceLeader---
Pascal Marie Albert CordierFranceClimber---
David Jean Michel LavieFranceClimber---
Mehdi Mikhael Van HaverFranceClimber---
Dakipa (Dawa Kipa) SherpaNepalH-A Worker---
Kami Nuru SherpaNepalH-A Worker---
Pemba Dorje SherpaNepalH-A Worker---
Kanchhi Maya TamangNepalH-A Worker---

출처·참고문헌

https://climbeverest2012.wordpress.com/2017/10/27/account-of-the-makalu-expedition-the-final-ascent/ · 2017 · 웹사이트 (5) ·