원정 개요

BC 16/09 4550m
ABC 17/09 4700m
C1 18/09 5200m
C2 19-22/09 5600m (at foot of the wall)
Biv3 23/09 5800m
Biv4 24-25,27/09 6050m
Biv5 26/09 6200m
Smt 27/09 by all 3 members at 8 pm.

Members :
Archil Badriashvili, Bakar Gelashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze (summit),
Gia Tortladze (stopped the climb on 17/09, short after ABC because too much
objective risk)

20 Sept: reached the base of the SE face (C2) after a delicate glacier approach.

21 Sept: bad weather, waiting at C2.

22 Sept: team climbed first 3 pitches up to M4. Slept at C2.

23 Sept: climbed 1 more mixed pitch. had took all necessary gear up to install Bivy 3 on their platform.

24 Sept: Archil climbed 4 pitches more and stopped at 6050m, hauling equipment till 3 am, then sleeping on their platform under an overhang (Bivy 4).

25 Sept: Giorgi and Bakar traversed to the right and climbed directly towards the crux starting from 6070m. Crux being a loose belt of rock climbed straight, including a 6a crack system and in the end AI4 pitch. Climbed 40 meters for 5 hours that day. Slept at Bivy 4.

26 Sept: Archil climbed three rope-lengths through overhanging sections. Weather improving. In the stayed all 3 in their two-man single tent on a small ledge.

27 Sept: Giorgi led three very difficult pitches though cracks and frozen sections. At around 20:00 all 3 stood on the summit of Larkya Peak. Slept at Bivy 4 that night.

28 Sept: after a day rest, in the evening team started again its descent through the night.

29 Sept: reached C2 in the morning, where team rested for a few hours. Then reached BC.

30 Sept: left BC for Samdo.

Georgian route: 6A/ED1/6a or 5.10b/M5/A4/80°.
1700m from ABC, 700m SE face (15 pitches plus summit ridge).

Team left BC on 30 of Sept.

Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

Records: 1st ascent of the peak, 1st ascent of the SE Face.