원정 개요

BC 14/11 5350m
ABC 18/12 5920m
C1 20/11 6170m (afoot of the North Face)
HPt 20/11 6170m by 4 members
Hpt 21/11 6600m by Nima Sherpa.

20 Nov: all members and hired left ABC for C1 (6170m) by easy route on glacier.

21 Nov: all members stayed at C1. Meanwhile Nima Sherpa and And Dawa Sherpa began to equip the North Face, all in ice, fixing the first 200m of the face. From the top of it, Nima went alone to the 6600m col. That evening, a briefing with the whole team at C1 led to decide to not to make an attempt on the peak, due to the mountain and weather conditions. Marty fearing also that 2 less experienced members of the team (Ulcakar and Volle), already not being fully acclimatized (and also not used to using fixed ropes), to be too slow up there.

22 Nov: all members and Sherpas traversed Futi Himal, then Lena Peak, in good ice conditions, but with strong wind. Great day on a nice ridge with great view. Night at ABC.

23 Nov: all back to BC.
24 Nov: left BC.

On return, Nima Sherpa and 4 members trekked back on their own, staying at Dhey village.

Fixed rope: 200m at begining of North Face of 6600m col.

Climb abandoned 21 November due to mountain conditions (North Face of col 6600m in ice), weather conditions (strong wind), lack of experience and acclimatization for 2 members.

Hired:
Nima Sherpa, Makalu-5, Makalu-Barun, 29/03/1987, ID 113663,
Ang Dawa Sherpa