원정 개요

BC 14/10 4900m at "new Himlung BC" opposite of "old Himlung BC", on southern
side of Pangri-Glacier
C1 18/10 5400m at rocks near glacier
C2 24/10 5800m at very last rocks before glacier
Smt 25/10 Montanari, Sartori, Nima Sherpa and Mingma Temba Sherpa

Team had planned climbing via the classic route but studying conditions and the route, the normal route which was taken by Czech team a few days before was deemed too dangerous because of large hanging seracs and avalanche danger. Instead they decided to ascend on the left side of the glacier, east of normal route. The new route had a lot of crevasses, but they were well visible and easy to negotiate. Both routes merged again before the summit. Crux section was immediately after C2, steep terrain (60 degrees). Glacier shrank a lot, their C2 was located on rocks, where their map showed only glacier.

Summit push started from C2 at 1:15 am. They quickly climbed the crux section, a steep ridge leading to a labyrinth of crevasses. They negotiated the crevasses, then reached a plateau at approx 6200m. From the plateau they had to ascend another slope which led to the summit ridge. Reaching summit ridge the wind got stronger, so strong they were struggling to keep their balance. Mingma reached the summit first, shortly followed by the others at 8:15 am. They stayed on the top for 10 minutes, very windy and cold, but clear views. Got down to C2 at 11:30 am, had some rest at C2, then on to C1 (arrival 3 pm). Back to BC on 26 Pct at 10:30 am.
Trekked back to Jagat via Koto.

They believe the majority of future expeditions will choose their new route, since objective dangers seem smaller than on classic route.

Team left BC on 27 Oct.

Route: on left side of glacier to West Ridge (east of normal route), then West
Ridge to summit.

Oxygen: Taken to BC for medical purpose, not used

Fixed rope: 30-40m just below C1, 100m just after C2 for crux section (approx.
5900-6000m)

Sherpas:
Mingma Temba Sherpa, from Makalu, 36 years
Nima Sherpa, from Makalu, 21 years