원정 개요

BC 07/09 5000m (in between two moraines)
C1 12/09 6000m
C2 18/09 6200m
HPt 18/09,22/09 6200m.

According to Messner, they were not attempting Tarke Kang (aka Glacier Dome), but Tharke Kang, which is east of it and is 7140m. [This peak is also known as Gangapurna West, Asapurna, or Lachenal Peak and is on the Ministry list of open peaks. This appears to be the first attempt from the north side.]

Upon arrival weather was good, however, there was a lot of snow. Trail breaking up to the knees, sometimes hips. Route itself not too technically difficult. About 70 degrees. The first time they reached 6000m they pitched a tent and stayed the night. However, before they set up their tent an avalanche came down at about 5:30 pm and took both climbers with it. Pruenster was in the avalanche for about 10 metres and nearly got swept down the abyss, but stopped before.

They pitched tent on the debris at 6000m and stayed the night. The next day they descended to BC. Bad weather period followed. A few days later they climbed back for another acclimatization rotation. They pitched their tent a bit higher at 6200m and it snowed a lot during the night and everything got wet. They descended the following day. Complete whiteout, but they made it back to BC. The following three days snowfall.

On 22 Sept, Messner climbed back up in very good conditions with the new snow being frozen. This time, Pruenster did not go up with him due to stomach problems. Messner was intending to head for the summit due to the excellent conditions; however, when he reached the spot where the tent was, it was gone. Probably swept away by an avalanche. He dug for two hours, but could not find anything. He descended back to BC.

Climb abandoned due to missing material. They were both very lucky as they were not in the tent when avalanche came down.

Team left BC on 23 Sept and returned to Ktmdu on 29 Sept by trekking back to Manang and then Besisahar.

Oxygen: Nnot taken, not used.