원정 개요

BC at same place as last autumn for East Face climb
C1 at snow hole on plateau (same as last autumn)
C2 one tent on NE Ridge, which had joined at 6500m
High point at NE Ridge.

Not a single day without clouds from 7 or 8 am and snow in late morning. Climbed mostly at night after first week. When arrived BC there was 2m deep snow at BC. 2 May from C1 to 7000m in acclimatization climb towards normal route and back to C1. 8 May started summit push and 9 May reached same high point as last year and little higher, then down because of slab avalanche danger and down to BC on 10 May.

15 May again up and 18 May to 7300m tent in very strong wind. 20 May down because snowfall and gas gone. 23 May all way down to BC through dangerous icefall (Kregar tummy trouble). Again more snowfall, both very tired and decided to leave Nepal 8 June.

Did not attempt E Face because they wanted finally to get to summit somehow, anyhow.