원정 개요

Arr Ktm 26/12
Lv Ktm 27/12
BC 02/01 5350m
C1 08/01 6050m
C2 10/01 6520m (from BC in 8 hours)
C3 23/01 7100m
HPt 30/01 7900m by Pasang and Walung
30/01 7700m and 7900m (Yellow Band) by all other members and Sherpas.

Txikon thinks that compared to last year, the expedition was very similar. One of the biggest differences, however, was the fact that even though they were only six climbers and not 11 like in 2017, they only took 9 days to fix the rope up to the Yellow Band. Last year, it took them 20 days.

The icefall doctors (Tenzing and Gyalzen) only went as far as C2.

Nuri, Ali Sadpara and Temba Bhote were focused on fixing the rope up to C2 (6100m) until 20 Jan (when they summited Pumori), which means before that, only six people were working and fixing the rope on Everest.

For their second rotation, they left BC on 27 Jan, reached C2 on 28 Jan and C3 on 29 Jan. On 30/01 they set out in the morning to reach C4. Pasang Sherpa and Walung had set out a little bit earlier than the rest of the team. When they all reached their high points, they turned back due to the cold and the high winds. They descended all the way to BC.

Between 1 and 17 Feb they spent most of their time inside their tents at BC as it was too windy. They winds died down and they decided to give it another go.

Third rotation:
23 Feb C2 in seven hours.
24 Feb C2 in about 4½ hours.
25 Feb Yellow Band (7700m), but turned back again due to high winds. Back to
BC the same day.

Temperatures:
C2 from -24 to -30C
C3 from –30 to -38C
C3 to high point around -40C

Weather conditions were a lot less predictable.

Climb abandoned on Feb due to high winds and cold.

Team left BC on 1 March.

Fixed rope: 6000m from BC

Oxygen: Taken, not used (Txikon intended to climb without O2).

Sherpas above BC: 7 (including Icefall Doctors)

Temba Bhote, Pawakhola, Makalu, 19/03/1982
Pasang Nurbu Sherpa, Makalu-9, 28/05/1990
Chhepal Sherpa, Patle-2, Okhalhdunga, 13/07/1982
Nuri Sherpa, Goli-7, Solukhumbu, 25/04/1986
Walung Sherpa

To C2 only (Icefall Doctors):
Tenzing (AC Sherpa)
Gyalzen