원정 개요

Cullinan - 22 April 80

Tseringma Point 6333m which is definite peak and highest point reached. Reached 12:30 on 11 April by Richards, Brammer and Shambu Lama Tamang and on 13 April by Carroll, Hardless, Remynse and Cullinan.

Each camp = 1 tent; no room on mountain for tents and most of those were hacked out of ice. Constantly avalanching on C2 and C3 with C3 flattened by spindrift from avalanching. Weather continually bad with heavy snow, drifting snow and white-outs. 2 full good days during entire expedition.

Ran out of time; said would be back at week 1 May. This route is possible with plenty of equipment (and a fear deaths, adds one member), but ridge is so badly corniced would have been doubtful. With resources we had, Tseringma was just right. One huge rock barrier half-way up to South Summit looks like a brick wall.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 16 April 80

Gaurishankar camps:
16 March - 16,800 ft - ABC
20 March - 18,000 ft - C1
24 March - 18,500 ft - C2
26 March - 19,000 ft - C3
4 April - 19,400 ft - C4

3 more camps required very good weather.
All well except Young while going to establish C4 slipped and fell nearly 1200 feet 3 April, but now Ok.


Charles Dufour - 8 April 80

24 March met Jim MacDonald one day below BC; sick with altitude illness and was returning. Have had a lot of trouble with equipment disappearing and lot of snow.


Cullinan - 20 Feb 80

Approach east to Tungmarnang river, with lower BC at 3200m at this Rolwaling Chu and Tungmarnang, northwards to BC at just under 4000m just below rivers fork then east on ridge line to point 5345m and then north to point 6333m. Then to South Peak (7010m) and then to summit (7146m) calling route SE Ridge.

All now in KTM. By road to Barabise. About 8 days walk to lower BC (1/2 day lower to higher BC).

3 camps above higher BC but maybe 4; highest camp just below South Summit or possibly at low point between South and North (Main) Peaks.

BC about 6 March
Summit about 12 April
4 Sherpas above BC including sirdar (Shambu Lama or Ang Tsering)
No oxygen for climbing, only for medical if available in KTM.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 22 April 80

Gaurishankar abandoned; reached Gauri (Tseringma) Peak, 6333m, on 11 April by Richards and 2 members. Abandoned 13 April because bad weather and shortage of time. All are now in KTM.