원정 개요

Note: team initially thought that they had climbed Dolma Khang (6332m), but later determined that they climbed a nearby 5840m unnamed subpeak.


BC 31/10 4750m located on rocks at south site of mountain right under the S Face
Smt 05/11 by Rasmussen, Dawa Tashi, Thundu, Tamting at 10:10 am.

Left BC on 6 Nov by helicopter from BC to Ktmdu.

Route: ascent on SW Face, maybe last bit on [North]West Ridge (Rasmussen not sure). Descent via same route.

Mountain lies on Tibetan border, just SE of Gaurishankar, between Gaurishankar and Beding Go.

Rasmussen wanted to climb Ramdung initially, then he found out that it has been climbed already and Lakpa from Ascent Himalayas came up with Dolma Khang as another option.

Total expedition consisted of Rasmussen, three climbing Sherpas, one cook, two cook assistants. Sherpas had spent 18 days locating the mountain and preparing BC before Rasmussen flew in by helicopter. Rasmussen had no prior acclimatization and suffered from strong headache first few days at BC.

On summit day he and 3 Sherpas started from BC at 2:30 am. They went straight for the summit from BC, no high camps. Some sections were tricky, scree slopes with a lot of lose rocks. Some climbing as steep as 80-degrees, maybe 4+ according to him. A lot of rockfall, Rasmussen was hit by small rocks on helmet and arms, got some bruises. Section reminded him of his climb on Ama Dablam, but more dangerous. After steep part they reached a ridge, very narrow ridge, Rasmussen more or less crawled along ridge because it was so exposed, Sherpas walked normally. Didn't follow whole ridge to summit, but traversed slope a few meters below summit. From their location they weren't sure which exit led to the true summit, it took some time until they found it. Highest point quite narrow, maximum of two persons could stand there at the same time. At 10:10 am they stood on the top. Took abseils on descent at steep part. At maybe 5100m between crampon point and BC Tamting took a fall on scree slope, rolled down the slope for some meters before he stopped. By falling he had released some rocks, one hit him at hip. Hip is okay now, but he may have broken of his fingers during fall; he's undergoing treatment in Kathmandu now. At 2:30 pm everyone was back at BC. Rasmussen had strong headache after the climb and used oxygen during the night.

Dolma Khang is also known as Tseringma and it has been climbed by Australian expedition in 1980 trying the SE Ridge of Gaurishankar (GAUR-801-01).

Oxygen:
Taken and used by Rasmussen intermittently from maybe 5800m to summit and on
descent. At BC during night after summit.

Fixed rope:
Several hundred meters on snow slope, steep rock part and on ridge before summit

Sherpas:
Dawa Tashi Sherpa, Gaurishankar-1, Dolakha, 18/04/1987
Tamting Sherpa, Gaurishankar-1, Dolakha, 20/12/1974
Thundu Sherpa, Gaurishankar-1, Dolakha, 18/02/1985