원정 개요

Petrov: 1st summit attempt with Boyan Petrov on 29 Sept:
Carlalberto Cimenti (Italy) stopped at c7800m
Davide Gerlero (Italy) stopped at c7600m
Matthias Koenig (Switzerland) stopped at c7400-7500m


BC 07/09 4700m
C1 10/09 5700m
C2 12/09 6666m
C3 28/09 7200m
Smt 08/10 by Cimenti at 2.15 pm, Koenig at 3 pm.

The summit team had intended to start at 10:30 pm on 7 Oct, but it was too windy and Koenig was not feeling well. At about 12:30 am Cimenti left for the summit while Koenig stayed in the tent as his upset stomach was still bothering him. At about 3 am, Koenig felt better and left the tent at about 3:30 am to follow Cimenti.

The snow was about half a meter deep and Cimenti had to break trail. He sometimes broke through the crust and it was hard work. There was some fixed rope on the traverse from about 7600m to 7890m which was probably fixed by Ang Phurba Sherpa of the Russian/Australian expedition. He traversed toward the last couloir that leads up to the ridge. The couloir is about 150m long, which was also fixed. Couloir was snowy. Once Cimenti got to the top of the couloir it took him about 20 minutes to get to the summit, where he spent about 35 minutes. It was still windy, but very clear. When he descended, he crossed Koenig, who was on his way up, just on the exit of the couloirs. Koenig spent about 15 minutes on the summit. On his descent he caught up with Cimenti and they both descended to C3, where they arrived between 6:30 pm (Koenig) and 7 pm (Cimenti).

The following day they descended to BC. On this final summit push, they did not take their skis with them. They had tried twice with skies, but when it came to the final attempt, they decided that they would just concentrate on the climbing rather than on the skiing.

Gerlero reached 7900m on the second summit push on 29 Sept. He did not feel well and turned back. On the final summit push, he reached C2. He felt unwell and descended to BC at midnight.

Skiing:

On the second summit push on 29 Sept, Gerlero and Cimenti took their skis to the beginning of the traverse at about 7600m. They deposited their skis there and continued to about 7900m (Gerlero) and 8000m (Cimenti). Cimenti was following Boyan Petrov, but when Petrov decided not to take the first couloir and continued to the traverse, Cimenti decided that he would not have the energy to carry on and turned back.

When Cimenti and Gerlero turned back they picked up their skis and carried them down to C3 as it felt more comfortable than skiing. They spent another night at C3 and on 30 Sept, Cimenti and Gerlero carried their skis to half way to C2 (about 6900m) and skied all the way down past the Little Eiger to about 5000m.

On the second summit push on 28 Sept, Koenig left his skis at 7400m and continued to about 7500m, but was too sick to continue with Gerlero and Cimenti. On his descent, he carried his skis to C3 and stayed the night there. On 29 Sept, he skied all the way from C3 to the end of the glacier near the Little Eiger to below C1 at about 5000m.

Team left BC 10 Oct.

Oxygen: Not taken, not used.