원정 개요

BC 10/09 4700m
C1 13-14/09 5700m
C2 19-20/09 6700m (heavy snowfall! Made deposit at C3)
C3 30/09 7250m (GPS)
Smt 01/10 by Yuri Kruglov and Ang Phurba Sherpa (with YK in 2016 MANA) and
Dendi Sherpa at 8:30 am.

Started at 9 pm from C3 the day before, climbing up fixing ropes (impossible de déterrer cordes of Soria sous un m de neige, packed snow, at about 7800m, left these and traversed by themselves simultaneously – because night time, not knowing where to go…). Then traversed to the left towards the exit couloir. Broke trails, each of them, every 20m changing (why used ox). Snow sometimes to the hips for the tracks on the large traverse (drum sound, then collapsed).

30 minutes after departure from C3 at 7500m Benjamin Kane (with YK on MANA last 2016) wanted to climb quicker behind them. When they reached 7500m, Kane's brand new Petzl headlamp failed (spare batteries, replaced, not working). Radio light, not working. No proper light, Kane could go no farther. Couldn't wait (-17°C) in the night, so went back to C3 that day. Was really prepared for the top that day.
Summit for Kruglov and Ang Phurba at 8:30 am. Lots of time on summit. Back at BC at 9 pm.

Knew great forecast, knew peaceful weather until midday. So had time. Also didn't want to leave Dendi alone. Episod / Italians on 20 Sept!

Dendi Sherpa was behind them. Started with them. Either sick or weak? 300m behind...they crossed each other at the corridor exit when Kruglov was going down. Dendi Sherpa summited (picture by Kruglov) at about 9:30-10 am.

Team left BC on 3 Oct.

Fixed rope: put a short rope below the summit ridge (in rucksack, climb solo, then anchor and abseil left there); above C3, used fixed ropes left by Carlos team (bad quality-anchors shitty; just clipped carabiner on the fixed rope on descent, but didn't hold it) (too steep, too far left).

Oxygen:
Used from C3 to smt by Kruglov
Not used by Kane and Reid.

High point on 30 Sept at 6900m for Kelven Reid (abandoned due to exhaustion).