원정 개요

BC 31/08 4672m
C1 01/09 5700m
C2 02/09 6666m
C3 14/09 7260m
Smt 29/09 by Boyan Petrov.

Summit day: Started at 1:45 am from C3, made all tracks alone from 7500m to the summit (climb rate: 11:30 for 900m => 78mh).

From exit on the summit ridge to the summit is 300m long, 10 minutes easy walk.
Summited at 1:10 pm. Put a snow bar on top with bamboo stick. Kruglov later did picture with it. Returned on same day to at C3 at 6:30 pm. Petrov left BC on 1 Oct.

Petrov used the exit couloir further right/west of the usual one, the latter seemingly to be in better conditions in spring (without cornices) according to him.
Oxygen: Not taken not used

Summit day started with:
Carlalberto Cimenti (Italy), who stopped at c7800m
Davide Gerlero (Italy), who stopped at c7600m
Matthias Koenig (Switzerland), who stopped at c7400-7500m

Yuri Kruglov summited the day after at 9 am (started at 9 pm on 1 Oct) with 2 Sherpas (Himalayan Guides).

On 15 Sept with Carlos Soria, Boyan reached the eastern ridge at a point down to the foresumit (c8055m), as Pemba Sherpa first told him to go there. As it was in the fog with dubious snow conditions on the ridge, he choose not to push farther.

Luis Carcavilla (geologist of Madrid) left BC 23 Sept. On 15 Sept, he went with Soria up to the footstep of the spur right to the usual exit couloir (made a deposit there at c7900m). Spur above it sizes c150m high.