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Spanish Chekigo West Expedition 2017

Chekigo · 2017 · 가을 (3) · Spain

원정 개요

BC 25/10 4500m (between Beding and Chekigo)
ABC 26/10 5100m (at the foot of West Face)
Smt 27/10 by Pablo Ruiz, Jesus Ibarz, Omar Juan via W Face at 4 pm (1st ascent)
Smt 07/11 by Zabalza, Ibarz via SE Face at 1 pm (2nd ascent).

Spanish talked about West Summit of Chekigo at 6121m (according to Finn Map). Pt 6121 not crossed by 1st ascent team in 2005 who climbed Chekigo via West Face as well (CHEK-051-01).

Spaniards did two ascents to Pt 6121, west of Chekigo, one via West Face and one via SE Face. All in alpine style. Plan had always been that subpeak, they never attempted main summit of Chekigo.

West Face team consisted of Ruiz, Ibarz and Juan. They started from their camp at the foot of the face at 2 am and got to the top of Pt 6121 at 4 pm. Entire face is 900m. Some very steep climbing (80°), some mixed climbing MD+ (Spanish scale). Crux sections at mixed terrain at middle of wall and near the summit. Very good conditions, ice in very good shape, it wasn't too cold. They stayed on the top for maybe 15 minutes. Descent via same route, rappelled down the entire face. Back at ABC at 10 pm.

Zabalza and his wife Sonia Casas tried to climb SE Face from Na village on 4 Nov, but Casas had problems with altitude and only reached 5500m. Both descended together to Na.

On 7 Nov Zabalza and Ibarz tried SE Face again. They had one camp after Na at 5150m at base of SE Face and slept there on 6 Nov. They left camp at 4 am, reached the summit at 1 pm and were back at camp at 5:30 pm. Conditions were good, not perfect. The summit was all in clouds, they had no visibility from the top. Climbing maybe V at the rocks, some parts as steep as 70-80°. SE Face not as difficult as West Face. Descent via same route as ascent, they rappelled a total of 15 pitches.

Madoz didn't climb because of personal problems.

Valle and Larranaga couldn't deal with altitude (they only climbed Yalung Ri).

Team left BC on 10 Nov.

Other peaks: Yalung Ri (5600m) by all members

  • 내부 원정 ID9635
  • 원본 EXPIDCHEK17301
  • 대장Miguel Zabalza
  • 루트 (Route)W Face to Pt 6121m
  • 최고 도달고도6121m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유부봉 등정 (2)

참가자 8명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Miguel (Mikel) Zabalza AzkonaSpainLeader---
Sonia Casas TorcidaSpainClimber---
Jesus IbarzSpainClimber---
Omar Juan SamperSpainClimber---
Jonatan Larranaga EndemanoSpainClimber---
Iker Madoz CampisteguiSpainClimber---
Pablo Ruiz SecoSpainClimber---
Jorge Valle GarciaSpainClimber---

출처·참고문헌

Chekigo Sano, West Face; Bamongo, South Face, Tick ChhaGriffin, Lindsay · 2017 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214596/Chekigo-Sano-West-Face-Bamongo-South-Face-Tick-Chha · 2017 · 웹사이트 (5) ·