원정 개요

BC 27/09 5300m
C1 01/10 6200m (29/09 1st time, but no sleeping)
C2 04/10 6600m
Smt 05/10 by Hanna, Naga Dorje, Sonam Samden, Pemba Tshering at 12:05 pm.

From base camp at 5300m, the team crossed the glacier without a rope as it was mainly moraine. Once on the base of the mountain, they scrambled up a small couloir. On the top of the couloir they established crampon point at about 5700m. From there they went up the snow face to gain the ridge, where they established C1 at 6200m. From C1 to C2 they climbed up the SE Ridge. The ridge was about 50 degrees. At 6200m they came across a few crevasses, which they could negotiate via snow bridges.

At about 6400m, the Sherpas did not want to carry on due to the crevasses, but Hanna pushed on. The Sherpas put him on belay and he fixed rope and took them across. They established C2 at 6600m right next to a big crevasse on the flat.

On summit day, the summit team left C2 at 6 am. They had to cross the big crevasse and climbed the headwall with the Sherpas fixing the ropes. The headwall was about 70 degrees. The snow on the headwall was sugary and they had to break trails. Snow was up to their knees. Hanna left some ashes of his dog on the summit and they drank a bottle of Moet Champagne. After they spent about half an hour on the summit, they descended to BC, where they arrived at about 6:10 pm.

Kershner reached C2 on 4 Oct. He was suffering from altitude sickeness and decided not to come on the summit push. He stayed at C2 and waited for the summit team to come back.

Burke reached 6300m on 5 Oct. He was on his way to C2 to join the rest of the team for a summit attempt. However, as the weather forecast was bad for the following days, Hanna decided to push for the summit. When Burke found out that Hanna and the Sherpas reached the summit, it was clear to him that he would not carry on. It was important to him that someone of the team reached the summit.

Team left BC by heli to Lukla on 7 Oct, and on to Ktm the same day.

Fixed rope:
2500m starting from 5400m

Sherpas:
Nanda Dorje (Naga Dorje), Khumjung, 30/12/1966
Samden (Sonam) Bhote, Hungung, 25/07/1979
Pemba Tshering (Maila), Khumjung, 18/04/1979