원정 개요

BC 30/09 5000m
C1 01/10 5250m (no sleeping)
HPt 01/10 5250m by Pedro, Luis and Barbara (on Bhrikuti Shail)

HPt 06/10 5250m by Pedro and Luis (on Saribung))

Climb abandoned on (BHRI): 01/10 due to technical difficulties and objective
dangers
Climb abandoned on (SARI): 06/10 due to deep snow conditions

Left BC (SARI) on 7th October

Routes: SW face on BHRI, NNE Face on SARI

Oxygen: Not taken not used

30/09: at BC of Bhrikuti, full of garbages! Stayed below it.

01/10: all 3 went to 5250 (HPt). Here they could see below the summit a 100m icy slope with a little serac above it. Many times watched some ice falling in the middle of the channel. Clients not so technical, so decided to change for Saribung on that day. Back to BC on that day.

02/10: all 3 to 5400m on Saribung, in the midde of the glacier. No sleeping there, just deposit (4 hours up, 2 hours down).

03/10: Pedro and Luis came with Barbara to Phu. She didn't want to climb anymore (mother with 4 children).

04/10: back to BC for Pedro and Luis.

05/10: with Luis up to camp at 5640m; snowed at the end of the afternoon until 10 pm.

06/10: that night to Saribung pass (6042m), with fresh snow up to the knees. Climbed up to 6250m and stopped there. Not far from summit, about a 100m down to it. Started at 3 am up to Saribung pass, 3:30 walk up; at c6:30 am at Saribung pass, drank water during a 30 min pause; left pass at 7 am, then stopped at about 11:22 am after doing the tracks in fresh snow.

Route of Saribung: NNE Face/Ridge, trying for the N side to see if not more ice: all same, lots of snow (also crevasses in the middle). Same day, Luis very tired, came back to 5640m place.

07/10: came to BC, dismantled it. Had porters there => to Phu altogether.

On Saribung:
Pedro Miguel Guedes Vieira (6250m)
Luis Antonio Ribeiro Almeida (6250m)
Barbara Borges (5400m)