원정 개요

BC 30/10 5400m
C1 01/11 6000m
C2 02/11 6300m
Smt 03/11 by McDonald, Phurba Ongchu Sherpa, Sange Sherpa at 11 am.

Hateley and Pritt flew in to BC from Chhukung on 2 Nov. They climbed Island Peak before for acclimatization. The others walked in and climbed Mera Peak before.

McDonald and Lewis wanted an early summit push. They ascended to C2 on 2 Nov. Lewis stayed at C2. It was too cold him, he was handicapped by previous cold injury damage at his toes.

McDonald, Phurba and Sange started from C2 on 3 Nov at 1 am. They summitted at 11 am. There was a lot of snow, thigh-deep, about 30-40cm of new snow at C2. Phurba had fixed ropes up to the summit together with the Summitclimb Sherpas the day before. They summitted in clouds, no visibility and had to descend through snowfall. They arrived at C2 at 5 pm. McDonald was extremely exhausted. On 4 Nov they went down to BC.

Dave Pritt and Nicholas Hateley slept at C1 for a night, then went down again. They had heard conditions were very bad on the mountain and didn't want to go any higher.

Niall Connolly reached C1 on 2 Nov; he had a chest infection and had to abandon climb.

It was cold every day, most days it clouded over during the expedition.

Persson reached her high point at C1 on 2 Nov. On 3 Nov she and Connolly were brought down to BC by Noble. Persson felt tired and exhausted, weather forecast was bad, prohibiting a summit attempt. On the way out between Baruntse BC and Amphu Laptsa Pass Persson's condition worsened. She had been coughing a lot and had been slow. She realized she couldn't do the pass in her condition and decided to have a helicopter evacuation the next day. During night at Amphu Laptsa BC she was given oxygen. On 8 Nov she and Wangda Sherpa were evacuated from Amphu Laptsa BC to Ktm via Lukla. She was hospitalized in Ktm, and diagnosed with AMS by doctor. She believes she was suffering from a chest infection rather than AMS. She's slowly getting better now.

Noble, Connolly and Lewis crossed the Amphu Laptsa on the way out and flew to Ktm from Lukla.

Oxygen:
Taken for emergency to C1, not used on mountain.
Anna Persson used some oxygen at Amphu Laptsa BC.

Fixed rope:
Between BC and C1 in couloirs and from C2 to summit, in cooperation with
Summitclimb team.

Sherpas:
Wangda Sherpa, Okhaldhunga, 1/12/1989
(BC manager, went to Crampon Point halfway between BC and C1)
Phurba Ongchu Sherpa (S) (lead Sherpa)
Sange Sherpa (S)
Phurtemba (Phursemba) Sherpa (C2)
Norbu Sherpa (C2)