원정 개요

BC at 4150m (usual site for North Face climbs)
C1 at usual (usual site for North Face climbs))
C2 at 4850m (usual site for North Face climbs)
C3 at 50m or so from usual site for North Face climbs
High point at C3 site.

Had to fix rope to C1, mostly a walk up from BC, because of much snow lying there. Decided to switch from NW Ridge to N Face route because ridge was all exposed rock, not snow-covered as anticipated and for which they were equipped.

On 25th April put all equipment for C3 at 6200m site but bad weather coming and did not sleep there. Now all down in BC during 4 days snowfall (30 cm snowfall daily). 29th good weather and 30th started up again. On 1 May all 5 from C1 to C2 and on the way all were hit by slab avalanche but went to C2 for that night but next day all down to BC to wait for better snow conditions. Then again period of frequent snowfall and then 2 tents at BC destroyed by wind. Went up to clear C1 and C2 on 5th and 6th May, but did not go above C2 because snow conditions too dangerous.