원정 개요

BC 26/10 4500m
C1 28/10 5700m
C2 31/10 6000m
Smt 01/11 Arias, Pont and Aymar at 12 pm.

Climb not difficult, BC to C1 easy but long, C1 to C2 difficult but ropes made it easy.

Started at 4 am from C2. Reached summit at 12 pm. Stayed on top for 30 minutes. Weather was good until 10 am then deteriorated. After summit team went down to C2, wanted to go down to C1 initially, but found a sick Korean climber at 6600m. He was alone when they found him.

He was in a team of 3 Koreans and 2 Sherpas, all Koreans got sick. Sherpas could only bring down 2 Koreans, so one of them had to stay behind alone. Sherpas had given him oxygen, but he showed no reaction. Arias gave him an injection of dexamethasone. Sherpas had called their BC for rescue team, BC promised to send Sherpas, but Sherpas never came.

Meanwhile, Ramon Pont continued descent, he arrived at C2 at maybe 8 pm. Arias and Aymar stayed with the Korean, they tried to talk to him, but he was unable to speak. They tried to bring him down using their rope, but it was too difficult. At 6 pm, Spaniards built a snow cave for the Korean. They had to descend themselves as it was getting dark. It was windy and snowing. They put the Korean in the snow cave and secured him using ice screws. Korean tried to speak, but Spaniards couldn't understand him. Then they went down, they descended maybe 10 meters when the Korean started to scream. They looked up and saw him removing the anchors, one by one. Removing the last anchor, he fell down West Face, for maybe 1500m. Spaniards saw him falling down, maybe 10 meters away. He fell from 6580m at 7:30 pm. His name / team / agency is unknown to Spaniards, Arias estimated him to be 65 years old, he was wearing a black/yellow downsuit.

Arias and Aymar arrived at C2 at 11 pm. On 2 Nov all three members went down to BC. Body of Korean was found and flown out by helicopter two days after accident.

Team left BC on 3 Nov.

Oxygen: Not taken not used.