원정 개요

BC at 4050m at Khyumbu Glacier
ABC at 4800m at west of glacier towards face of SW Ridge
C1 at 5600m on SW Ridge
C2 at 5800m on ridge beyond rock and snow peaks
Biv at 6100m 200m beyond Japanese peak 5970m
High point at 6050m at bivouac.

From ABC to C1 2 couloirs. Took route slightly different from Japanese route, joined ridge S of Japanese point of joining it. Above C1 was difficult rock peak with 4 rock steps; then down and traversed to middle of 3 peaks, then several snow peaks. Beyond C3 was 300m saddle but very sharp ridge here and very steep on both sides and above (=beyond) saddle, steep rock peak (5970m), followed by rock and snow peaks an fixed 3000m rope from point 5970m.

Fixed total 3500m rope, even snow peaks very narrow and ridge all up and down. Planned total 4 high camps above ABC but sites very difficult (sides of ridge 45 degrees hard ice) and 2000m rope fixed rope needed.

Komprej hit by snow avalanche in 1st couloir but not serious. Constant snowfall meant camps on ridge covered by wind driven snow and ropes often covered by snow. Had only 4 days without snowfall and often had trouble seeing route when were in low clouds. Then last week of climbing strong winds. With no Sherpas with them, exhaustion setting in, in such weather would have taken this team another month to reach summit. This mountain really too difficult for them.