원정 개요

Approach: Bulski and Lees via Rolwaling and Tashi Laptsa into Khumbu; rest by flight to Lukla and trekking to BC (some climbed Island Peak).

BC 16/10 4600m
C1 23/10 5800m
C2 25/10 6000m
Smt 26/10 by Mortell, Rasmussen, Orywa, Lanthier, Staub, Cheung,
Tenji Sherpa, Ang Dawa Sherpa, Dawa Jangbu Sherpa
Smt 28/10 by Lees, Olsen, Lanctot, Dubuc, Phujung Bhote, Lakpa Tendu Sherpa.
Smt 20/11 by Westreicher and Tenji Sherpa (see below).

First summit group started from C2 at 1:30 am on 26 Oct, all members in that group except Rasmussen reached summit between 9:30 and 10 am. Stayed on top for 10-30 minutes. Rasmussen with Jangbu Sherpa summitted at 4 pm. Everyone back at C2 by 4 pm, except Rasmussen and Jangbu, who arrived at C2 at 2 am on 27 Oct. "Rasmussen isn't the fastest but has a big engine." Others encouraged him to turn around but he continued with Jangbu. Got back to C2 after 24-hour summit push exhausted, but without injury. All except Rasmussen descended to BC on 27 Oct (arrival between 1 pm and 4 pm). Rasmussen went down to C1 on 27/10 and to BC on 28 Oct (arrival at 7 pm).

Second summit group started from C2 at 1 am on 28 Oct. Got to summit at 10 am, arrival back at C2 at 4 pm. All returned to BC on 29 Oct.

Both groups had great weather on summit days, weather turned bad on 29 Oct in the afternoon.

Bulski never went above BC, he hurt his back going to the toilet and had to abandon climb.

Miu cancelled climb altogether for unknown reasons, maybe personal issues according to Mortell. He left Nepal already.

Left BC on: Mortell, Lanctot, Dubuc on 31 Oct, rest of team on 30 Oct.

Westreicher flew to 6 Nov and arrived at BC on 10 Nov. He went to C1 on 17 Nov, C2 on 19 Nov, and summited on 20 Nov at 8:45 with Tenji Sherpa, descended to BC and left on the same day.

Oxygen: Not used, taken for emergency.

Fixed rope: Tenji Sherpa repaired small parts of the ropes on descent from summit to C2.

Other peaks: Island Peak by Bulski, Lees, Lanctot, Dubuc

Sherpas:
Lhakpa Tendu Sherpa, Patle, 28/03/1977
Tenji Sherpa, Patle, 01/06/1982
Dawa Jangbu Sherpa, Patle, 04/06/1979
Phujung Bhote, Hatiya-1, 31/05/1979
Ang Dawa Sherpa, Patle, 02/12/1979