원정 개요

CBC 17/04 5180m
ABC 23/04 6400m
C1 03/05 7100m
C2 19/05 7700m
C3 20/05 8300m
HPt 21/05 8500m
21/05 8220m (point of death)

Went trekking in the Khumbu before flying to Lhasa on 14 April.

On 8 May Marchetti tagged 7500m and returned to ABC and went back to CBC on 10 May. On 14 May, he ascended back to ABC. He took eight hours from C1 to C2 and used one bottle of oxygen.

On summit push he together with the rest of the Trekking Himalayan team left C3 at 8pm on 20 May. Marchetti carried a heavy pack and Mindu was wondering what he was carrying. They reached mushroom rock at 8500m at 1 am on 21 May. Marchetti said that he was having a big problem with his chest, and said: "Don't worry about the summit Mindu, I will still give you the bonus – just help me get down." They reached 8300m at 2:30 am.

They spent about half an hour resting and having a drink. Frank wanted to go down as quickly as possible. They got to about 30m below the camp. Marchetti got wobbly, could not speak and was unable to communicate. He stared vacantly at the sky and could not sit upright. Mindu turned up the flow rate of his oxygen to 4l per minute. There was no change in his behaviour. He stopped breathing after about 10 minutes. Mindu checked him and attempted CPR for some time, but could not revive him. He stayed with him for about 2 hours and then left.

When Mindu left, Frank was still attached to the fixed line about 30m below high camp.

Judith Raines went only ABC (did not intend to go farther).

Oxygen: Taken and used from C1 to point of death.

Sherpa
Tharke Sherpa
Mindu Sherpa (Dawa Gyalgen's brother)