원정 개요

BC 13/04 4900m
ABC 19/04 6400m
C1 30/04 7000m
C2 19/05 7650m
C3 20/05 8200m
Smt 21/05 by Blacha with Ram Nurbu, Boehm with Pemba Rinji at 5 am,
von Stam with Sange at 7 am, Holzer with Ang Dorje, Bichler with
Ang Kaji, Klocker with Kunga, Vriesendrop with Kusang Sherpa,
Mingmar Wangchhu at 7:20 am.

Van Stam was a day behind the rest of the team and only left ABC on 19 May (others left on 18 May); he had not been feeling well on 18 May and had already slept on oxygen. He went to North Col on 19 May and directly to C3 on 20 May, where he caught up with the others.

Summit team left C3 between 11 pm and 11:30 pm on 20 May. It had been windy until then, but had died down. They overtook Frank Marchetti (the Australian, who died) just above C3. It was obvious that there was already a problem as there were a few people surrounding him frantically talking on the radio. There was a doctor up there with him and said that he had to descend immediately otherwise he would die.

They spent about 15 minutes on the summit, and Bichler, Holzer and Klocker descended to C3, where they arrived at 1 pm. On 22 May, they descended to ABC. It took them about 5 hours to get there. Holzer said that he had a good system with Bichler and Klocker looking after him and clipping him and and out of the rope. The Sherpa surrounding them did not interfere and it was really nice as they were simply "there."

The rest of the group descended to C1, where they arrived between 2 pm and 4 pm. They passed the dead body of Marchetti at about 8150m. He was hanging on a rope.

Ruch reached North Col on 20 May. He had pre-acclimatized with a hypoxic tent previous to the expedition and only arrived at ABC on 8 May. He was not acclimatized well enough and did not feel well due to a cold and abandoned the climb.

Kopp reached C2 on 20 May. He had a migraine attack and did not go any higher. He descended to ABC on 20 May.

Furtenbach was going to join the expedition at a later date, but did not for personal reasons.

Everyone back at ABC on 22 May. Team left ABC on 23 May.

Holzer is the first blind person to summit from the North side.

Oxygen: Taken and used from C1 to top or high point to C1 by members and Sherpas.

Sherpas:
Ang Kaji Sherpa, 27/04/1988 (Everest X3)
Kunga Sherpa, 17/07/1992
Ang Dorchi Sherpa, 18/08/1985
Ram Norbu Sherpa, Makalu, 25/11/1980
Pemba Rinji, Bishinga-7, Okhaldhunga, 10/01/1976
Kusang Sherpa, 30/11/1974
Sange Sherpa, 02/01/1992
Mingmar Wangchhu Sherpa, 28/05/1974