원정 개요

BC at normal high BC site at glaciers' junction
C1 at east branch of Chago Glacier
C2 south of 6550m col at beginning of steep climb to Makalu Col
C4 on Makalu La
High point on North Face.

Early May very cold strong winds blew from Tibet so retreated to BC. Lot of wind throughout climbing period but little snowfall. Could walk from BC to C2 in tennis shoes. After made C4 again winds fierce and down to BC. 2 members left expedition (a member found this climb not for him). Other 2 members headed up again on 20th May but Wilcox got sick at C3 and went down 22nd May with one Sherpa. Gillette continued up with 3 Sherpas to C4 in fierce winds fixing 100 ft rope. 2 more days winds to 80 mph. Started up on 2 successive days with 4 Sherpas turned back while Gillette using oxygen carried on up alone to see where he could get. No wind now, perfect weather, but steep rock at high altitude alone struck Gillette as not wise and he turned back at 8100m (he had never been above 7600m before in his career).


Bouchard - 27 May 1986

Bouchard left BC 19 May. All down in BC. 4 people 4 oxygen not enough so 2 including Bouchard volunteered to give up theirs leaving Gillette and Wilcox for summit push leaving BC 21 May and getting to top about 25 May.

C4 about 200m above North Col = 7600m occupied about 10 May
C3 = 7000m
C2 = 6400m

Chous may have left BC soon after Bouchard
Bouchard leave KTM 28 May