한국산악아카이브 | KOREA MOUNTAIN ARCHIVE

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SummitClimb Everest North Expedition 2017

Everest · 2017 · 봄 (1) · USA

원정 개요

BC 15/04 4900m
ABC 20/04 6400m
C1 03/05 7000m
C2 20/05 7850m
C3 21/05 8200m
Smt 22/05 by Budge and Dawa Jangbu at 2 pm
Smt 27/05 by Klaus and Ang Dorje at 6:30 am, Kashouh, O'Brien and Tenji at
8:30 am, Toothill, Ang Dawa, Whitefield and Tendu at 9.30 am,
Toorens and Gelze at 10 am.

22 May summit team summited so late as there were a lot of people on the route and they were held up on the way. Straightforward climb. Stayed about 20 minutes on summit and descended to C3, where they arrived at 7 pm.

27 May summit team left C3 at 12:30 am. Weather was clear and calm. However, it was windy on the summit and they only stayed for about 10 minutes. During the descent, it started to snow at about 4 pm, which made the descent tricky for some of the members. Apart from Klaus and Kashouh everyone stayed at C3, where they arrived at between 2 pm and 7:30 pm. Klaus and Kashouh descended to C1, arrived at 6 pm.

On 28 May, Toothill woke up snowblind at C3. O'Brien short-roped him to ABC. They left C3 at about 11 am and reached ABC at 1 am. Toothill's vision got better after about four hours.

Everyone else was also down at ABC on 28 May. Team left BC 31 May,

Toothill has active bowel cancer.

Barclay reached C1 on 19 May and decided not to continue.

Creeden reached C1 on 26 April. He had a very bad cough, which was diagnosed as pneumonia. He left expedition on 30 April.

Hopkins reached C2 on 23 May. It was during an initial summit push, however, the weather deteriorated and the team went down again. Hopkins got frostbite coming down from C2 to C1. He has mild frostbite on two fingers.

Munday reached C1 on 3 May and stayed the night there. When the team headed up for the first summit push, he decided not to join them. He then left expedition.

Accidents: Snowblindness and frostbite.

Oxygen: Taken and used from C1 to summit to C1 by members and Sherpas.

Sherpas:
Dawa Jangbu (Da Jangbu), Patle-4, Okhaldhunga, 04/06/1979
Dorje (Ang Dorje), Patle-5, 08/09/1985
Tenji/Tenzing, Patle-6, 01/06/1982
Tendi, Patle-4, 15/12/1985
Gelze, Patle-4, 13/09/1990
Ang Dawa, Patle-3, (2036-02-12)


Ricky Munday - 14 Dec 2017

Mike Hopkins suffered severe frostbite, temporary wind-blindness and multiple pulmonary edemas. He was rescued from above 7000m and required three months off work to rest completely as his lungs recovered. 13 Dec 2017 he had 50% of his most badly frostbitten finger amputated.

Ricky Munday joined the initial summit push and climbed up to C2 (7900m) and spent the night there. The following morning he chose to descend to ABCl then moved to BC and organised Mike Hopkins's treatment and evacuation from base camp to Kathmandu (and travelled with him and two other climbers).

Binns climbed up to C2 and spent 2 nights there with the team before descending after a storm. His high point was C2. He supported Hopkins's treatment and evacuation from BC.

  • 내부 원정 ID9535
  • 원본 EXPIDEVER17172
  • 대장David O'Brien
  • 루트 (Route)N Col-NE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8849m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용사용
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 18명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
David Joseph O'BrienUKLeader성공사용-
Alan BarclayUKClimber---
Leslie John BinnsUKClimber---
Holly Claire BudgeUKClimber성공사용-
David Hugh CreedenUSAClimber---
Michael John HopkinsUKClimber-사용-
George Besa KashouhUSAClimber성공사용-
Hubert KlausAustriaClimber성공사용-
Richard (Ricky) MundayUKClimber---
Adam William ToorensAustraliaClimber성공사용-
Ian Wallace ToothillUKClimber성공사용-
Peter David WhitfieldUKClimber성공사용-
Ang Dawa SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Dawa Jangbu (Da Jangbu) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Dorje (Ang Dorje) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Gelje (Gelze) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Tendu SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Tenji/Tenzing SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-

출처·참고문헌

https://www.summitclimb.com/news/recent/everest-tibet-news/# · 2017 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
https://www.facebook.com/rickymundayadventure/videos/vb.676769973/10155717992649974/?type=3 · 2017 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
Video by Ricky Munday