원정 개요

BC 18/04 4900m
ABC 25/04 6400m
C1 02/05 7000m
C2 19/05 7650m
C3 20/05 8200m
Smt 21/05 by Oliani, Phurba Kusang, Pemba at 7 am; Rigotti, Mingma Nurbu at 8 am.

Summit team and van 't Hof left C3 on 20 May at about 9.30 pm. van 't Hof turned back at the mushroom rock at about 8600m at 3 am. He was too slow and turned back after the Sherpas told him to. He descended C3, where he arrived at 7:30 am.

Rest of the team continued. Straightforward climb. They spent about half an hour on the summit and descended to C3, where they arrived at 11 am. Oliani descended to ABC, where she arrived at 6 pm. Rigotti to C1 at about 6 pm.

Reijerse and Coster reached 7300m on 19 May. Reijerse had HACE and Coster turned him around. They reached ABC, and Reijerse felt better, but abandoned the expedition.

Van Bilderbeek reached 7200m on 19 May. He was too slow and gave up.

Rabelo reached 7000m on the acclimatization. He never started the summit push as he had been having an upset stomach all the way through the expedition.

Kragh was attempting without oxygen. He aimed to summit on 22 May. He left C3 at 6 am on 22 May. He had already suffered from cold hand and feet the previous day and that's why he left it so late. He was on his own. He reached mushroom rock (8600m) at about 1 pm, but the weather was deteriorating and his extremities were too cold. He descended to C2 (7700m), where he arrived at 6 pm. It was very windy that night. When he woke up the next morning and was putting on his boots at about 5 am, the wind took his tent and he was lifted inside the tent and moved for about 20 meters. It got caught at a rock and stopped. Kragh grabbed the most important belongings and then the tent flew away. He then started his descent to ABC. The first part was still very windy, but then it got better. He reached ABC at about midday.

Pasang Nurbu suffered from a chest infection. He was with van 't Hof, but decided to stay at C3 and not go for the summit. He and van 't Hof descended together after van 't Hof's summit attempt.

Team left ABC on 27 May.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C1 to top or high point to C1 by members and Sherpas
Kragh did NOT use any oxygen or Sherpa support.


Report from Karina Oliani:

BC 02/05 5200m
IC 03/05 5800m
ABC 04/05 6400m
C1 08/05 7100m
C2 19/05 7800m
C3 20/05 8300m
Smt 21/05 Oliani, Pemba Sherpa at 6:45 am.

Oliani and Pemba started at C3 at 10:45 pm on 20 May. They stayed on the summit for 15 minutes. Weather was good, sunny, blue skies, -35°C. They descended all the way to ABC on summit day, reaching it at 4:30 pm. Next day they went down to BC.

Rabelo got sick at the start of the expedition and only reached C1 before abandoning the climb.


Email from Mark van t' Hof - 30 May 2017

My attempt for Everest North was blocked by a sick Sherpa who didn't want to be replaced, although already several weeks a cold and no voice. The sirdar insisted [him] on staying with me.

But in C3 at 8200m, after already days of vomiting and solid coughing, he had to give up. Fell asleep and I had to care for him. And his radio didn't work. So no communication possible between me and Arnold in ABC.

At night, I went to summit without him, together with two pair of members and their Sherpa's.

At nearby Second Step the speed differs between us, I had to go further alone.

According to my GPS I came to 8567m.

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/1759820652?share_unique_id=57

After thorough competition inside me between ambition and wanted joy of climbing, versus ratio about safety alone in a risky area I decided, with pain in my heart, to return before the Second Step.

No second try was possible in the next days, for several reasons.

I am very disappointed that my try to get to the summit was blocked now for twice, earthquake 2015 and sick, unwilling Sherpa in 2017. No database Everest for me this year.