원정 개요

BC at 5300m at normal site on Yalung Glacier
C1 at 6100m near top of the hump
C2 at 6700m a little way up second icefall
C3 at 7100m just below Great Shelf
C4 at 7600m 200m below normal spot which is at bottom of gangway.

Groom reached 8400m on 13 May in attempt to see how high he could get above C4; turned back when wind came up and skies clouded over. Rejoined Chemello and Van Gelder at C4 at 7600m.

C4 too low because the two climbers with Groom pushing up to C4 having trouble in deep snow and were not very strong up. On 13th May Groom went on up alone to see how high he could get; took no bivy gear with him and returned to C4 same day. Frost and Strohfeldt had given up after 26th April when bad weather drove all down to BC. Other three waited for snowfall to stop and then tried summit push. All but Groom had no Himalayan expedition experience and Groom turned back at 8400m because he himself "didn't know what to expect at 8400m." Had been agreed second push would be the last.