원정 개요

BC 20/04 5400m
C1 27/04 6100m
C2 28/04 6400m
C3 15/05 7000m
C4 16/05 7800m (O'Brolchain slept at C4 on the way down)
Smt 16/05 by Tshering Pemba Sherpa, John Snorri Sigurjonsson at 4:30 pm,
Cian O'Brolchain at 6 pm.

The team left C3 on 16 May on their summit push at 12:30 am. From C3 they went straight for the summit. They fixed ropes from 8100m to the summit. There was knee-deep snow on summit day, but apart from that, conditions and weather were good, relatively warm, not too windy. They were protected by the couloirs from the wind.

The climbing was hard because of the snow and because they had to fix the ropes. O'Brolchain ran out of oxygen early on the way up, but Tshering gave him more. Tshering and Sigurjonsson reached the summit at 4:30 pm, they stayed on the summit for 30 minutes. O'Brolchain reached the summit at 6 pm, spending 10 minutes on the top.

Sigurjonsson and Tshering descended to C3 where they spent the night. They reached C3 around 9 pm. O'Brolchain spent the night alone in C4, he got there at 11 pm. It was a cold night as he didn't have a sleeping bag and was out of oxygen. On 17 May, Sigurjonsson and Tshering Sherpa went down to BC, O'Brolchain and Mingma (who turned around on summit push at 8300m) went to C2. On 18 May, everyone was back at BC.

Oxygen:
Taken and used by Tshering and Sigurjonsson from C3 to summit and back to C3
By O'Brolchain from C3 to summit and back to C4.

Sherpa:
Tshering Pemba, Beding, 12/12/1985
Mingma [Tshering?] Sherpa, [Beding, 01/08/70?]