원정 개요

After 15 May first Everest summit with the British Gurka Team led by Dick Gale, Purja descended to South Col and then to C2, where he arrived at 9 pm on 15 May. On 17 May back to BC. Heli to Kathmandu on 18 May and returned to BC on 23 May by heli.

BC 23/05 5350m
C2 25/05 6400m (left BC at 1:30 am and arrived at 6 am)
C4 26/05 8000m (left C2 at 2 am and arrived at C4 on 11:30 am)

Everest Smt 27/05 by Purja, Lhakpa Sherpa (Makalu) at 5:35 am.

Purja and Lhakpa left C4 at 9:20 pm. Reached dead body of Roland Yearwood just below the Balcony at 11:45 pm. Reached summit at 5:35 am. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit, then descended to C4, where they arrived at 7:30 am. Lhakpa stayed at Everest C4. Purja rested for about 1 hour and continued to Lhotse C4, where he arrived at 10:30 am. He did not rest there, just grabbed some oxygen and continued towards the Lhotse summit with Jangbu Sherpa.

Lhotse Summit 27/05 by Purja and Jangbu Sherpa at 3:55 pm.

They spent about 10 minutes on the summit. The weather was horrendous. Very windy. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 7:20 pm. On 28 May, back to BC. On 29 May he took a helicopter to Lukla. Waited for his Makalu ABC flight, but weather too bad. In the early evening, he took a heli to Namche to celebrate Everest day there.

On 30 May in the early morning, he took a heli back to Lukla, picked up four Sherpas and flew to Makalu BC, where they arrived at 7:41 am (see MAKA-171-12 for Makalu summit details).

Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to both summits to C3 by Purja and Sherpas.


Dhaniram Rai was independent of Nirmal Purja.