원정 개요

BC at Omega Valley
C1 just short of getting glacier running south from Omega
C2 just 300 hundred feet short of col at 5865m
C3 at snow cave on tongue of ice (hanging glacier)
C4 at bottom of crevasse on a serac near West Summit
C5 at main summit plateau in snow cave.

Ascent on right side of NW Ridge. Frost and Lowe climbed lower northwest peak; Hargreaves and Twight climbed main peak up steep ice face. Descent was by northeast couloir.

Roghaar and Frost worked on lower part of route after others went to Lobuche on 14th (and returned on 21st April) and pushed route to 17,000 ft to get onto glacier and 5 members (excluding Kendall) started up together on 23 April aiming for Col at 5865m. 24th reached near Col, 25th down to 17,000 ft and made another carry to 19,000 ft by 4 while Roghaar feeling unwell, descended and abandoned climb. 27th moved from col up rope on 2 pitches up headwall above ice tongue. 29th four members moved camp up headwall. 30th four climbed on ice gully and traversed into a notch between north and main summits to main summit plateau. Lowe had bronchitis and health deteriorating on 30 April. Surprised on 1 May to find very difficult ice climb to top up steep fluting, so Hargreaves and Twight went up for top with all of expedition's small supply of ice screws and rope while Lowe and Frost went to subsidiary summit (6685m) in easy climb and descended onto Hinku Nuptse Glacier at 19,000 ft on top 1979 route. 2 May summiters followed same descent route. All in BC 2 May.

Lobuche East first by Hargreaves, Kendall, Lowe and Twight.

Roghaar left Nepal about 3 May.
Frost returned to KTM 9 May and leaves Nepal 14 May.
Kendall returns to KTM 11 May.
Lowe returns to KTM about 25-27 May and leave Nepal end of May.