원정 개요

BC on west side of Lhotse Nuptse Glacier
Biv 1 on South Spur
Biv 2 on South Spur
Biv 3 on South Spur
Biv 4 in cave on South Spur
Biv 5 on South Spur
High point on South Spur.

Alpine-style attempt SE Buttress (between original British route and Cassin-Messner ramp).

12th May recce and left cache of gear 18,500 ft. Then snowfall and unable to go up till 19th when started up again and reached 19,000 ft. 21st moved up again and by 26th had just about reached top of spur and then gaing would have been "a lot easier" to SE Peak at 25,600 ft, but "got weathered off" and 3 days more climbing to this summit. Spur was very severe hard rock and snow made it impossible to climb. "Is fabulous climb, best in the area" - perfect rock (hard granite), steep, difficult, safe (only one rock fall during climb), technical climb to 23,000 ft where easy black rock, snow and ice begin.

Lowe and Twight plan to return to this route this winter.


Sandy Allan, Lhotse Shar - 25 Aug 86

Nuptse: 22 May Allan left Nuptse area and that day Lowe and Twight were well up Nuptse buttress. Were on their 4th day of their push (had taken 10 days food with them). Lowe now plans to return to KTM 3 June.