원정 개요

BC 19/04 5350m
C1 26/04 6100m
C2 27/04 6500m
C3 09/05 7100m
C4 21/05 7900m
Smt 22/05 by Nima Gyalzen, Jangbu and Pemba Ongchu at 2 am
by Lakpa Chhiri, Ang Tshering Lama, Pemba Tamang, Pemba Chhiri,
Sange Sherpa, Phurba Thile Sherpa (brother of Nima),
Jit Bahadur Sherpa and 7 Chinese at 3 am.

Team left C4 at 7 pm on 21 May. It was a good day, not windy and not cold. Straightforward climb.

Rescue of Dawa Sange and Bhatti:

On the descent Nima Gyalzen, Ang Chhiring Lama, Jangbu Sherpa and Mingma Chhiri Sherpa at about 8700m they found Bhatti the Pakistani and Sange Sherpa at about 3 am. Bhatti was asleep and Dawa Sange Sherpa 95% dead. He had thrown off his gloves and oxygen and was hanging on the rope. Nima Gyalzen removed his oxygen and his spare mask and gave it to Bhatti and Dawa Sange Sherpa.

Nima Gyalzen put both sick people on the rope and the four Sherpas dragged them down to C4, where they arrived at 3 pm. There the doctor of IMG gave Bhatti and Sange Sherpa dexamethasone.

On 23 May Seven Summit Sherpas brought them to C3, from where Bhatti was long-lined to BC and then to Kathmandu and Dawa Sange Sherpa was left at C3 on his own for the night! On 24/05 he was brought down to C2 and heli-vaced to Kathmandu.

Left BC: 26 & 29 May

Sherpas:
Nima Gyalzen, Beding, 09/08/1985
Lakpa Chhiri Sherpa (Dolakha, Khare-7) 04/10/1983 (ID 26606)
Ang Tshering Lama, Chisapani (guided on Denali) 1st time Everest (45 years)
Jangbu (2016 Dubai Army team)

Oxygen: Taken and used from C3 to top to C3.