원정 개요

BC 16/04 5350m
C1 23/04 6100m
C2 26/04 6500m
C3 29/04 7050m
C4 17/05 8000m
Smt 20/05 by Chhewang Karma and Salte at 10 am
Smt 21/05 by Lhakpa Tendu, Szczuraszek and Babij at 1 pm.

Summit 20 May: Salte, Anthony Sanchez, Kjoelvik, Yearwood and Borang arrived at C4 on 17 May. The weather was not good (windy and snowing) and they stayed at the South Col until 19 May. They left C4 at 7:30 pm on 19 May. Summiters stayed for about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 2 pm.

Sanchez turned around at the Hillary Step he was too tired.

Yearwood reached the Balcony at about 5:30 am. His Sherpa Sange told him to go down as he was so slow, but Yearwood insisted on continuing to the South Summit (8700m), where they arrived at about 3 pm. Yearwood was very confused and finally agreed to go down. He started to descend, but Sange ended up dragging him down for about 2 hours. They reached the Balcony at 7:30 pm. The weather was bad, Yearwood showed severe signs of HACE. He threw his gear around, rolled in the snow, took off his oxygen mask. He died at midnight. Sange stayed with him until he died and descended to C4, where he arrived at 1:30 am on 21 May.

On 21 May and 24 May the Sherpas went back up to the Balcony to recover Yearwood's body; however, both times the weather did not allow for a recovery.

Mito Borang reached the Balcony (8400m), but the weather was too bad for him and his Sherpa told him to turn back as he was too slow. He decided to turn back to C4 and abandon the climb.

Kjoelvik reached C4 on 17 May. He was very sick up there and descended to C2 on 19 May.

On 21 May summit team and Hanna Bruss, Sylwia Bajek, Damian Bourke, Krzysztof Sabisz, Szczepan Brzeski left C4 at 7:30 pm. Bruss reached the Balcony, but she was very slow and very tired and descended to C4 with Lhakpa Gelu [from British Gurka team]. Bajek and Brzeski reached the Hillary Step and decided to go down as their oxygen was running low. It was 11 am. They had insisted on climbing on a high flow rate, even though they were told that they would not reach the summit with such a high flow rate (by Pema Renzi). They descended to C4 and stayed the night. They had enough oxygen to sleep on it at a flow rate of 1/2 litre.

Damian Bourke got hit by a rock or an oxygen bottle on his way to the summit. He was in the rock field below the Balcony (8300m). He got knocked over and descended to C4, where he stayed the night and on 22 May, he descended to C2 from where he was helicoptered back to Kathmandu.

Sabisz reached the South Summit. He was very slow and sick. His Sherpa told him to come down. He descended to C4 with slight HACE, spent the night at C4, on 22 May to C2 and on 23 May to BC.

Summit team descended to C4, where they spent the night.

Kress reached C3 on 29 April; he left the expedition when he heard about Ueli Steck's death.

Mori reached BC but was so dehydrated, the doctor at the HRA clinic gave her two litres of saline at BC. She left the expedition on 20 April.

Rigney reached C2 and left expedition due to his bad cough.

Mazur stayed at BC as he never intended to climb.

Oxygen: C3 to summit to C3 by members; C4 to summit to C4 by Sherpas.

Sherpa Summiters:
Chhewang Karma, Patle, Okhaldhunga, 28/01/1989
Lhakpa Tendu (Lhakpa Kormu), Patle, Okhaldhunga, 28/03/1977