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Tim Mosedale's Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2017

Everest · 2017 · 봄 (1) · UK

원정 개요

BC 17/04 5350m
C1 21/04 6100m
C2 24/04 6400m
C3 14/05 7100m
C4 15/05 7900m
Smt 16/05 by MacKenzie, Mosedale, Ptemba Sherpa, Dorje Gyalzen at 7 am
Smt 26/05 by Guidry and Jabu, McHugh and Dorje Gyalzen (again), Penson and
Kalzang Dorje at 11 am.

Tim Mosedale's team had flown down to Namche on 11 May and was there when Mosedale found out that the ropes were going to be fixed and the weather would be good for the summit on 16 May. He rang them and the MacKenzie agreed to come back [immediately]. MacKenzie was back on 12 May and left BC for summit on 13 May.

16 May summit team left at 10 pm on 15 May. Good day and good conditions. They spent about 30 minutes on the summit everybody down to C2, where they arrived at 5pm.

Others back from Namche on 18 May and left for summit push on 21 May. They spent three nights at C2, then C3 and on 25 May. Mosedale went to the South Col with the team, but as he did not have a permit for a second summit, he stayed there and waited for his team.

26 May summit team left C4 at 1:30 am. The reason they left so late was due to the weather forecast as winds were supposed to be dying down from 5 am. The ascent was windy. Only few other groups around (Himex). There was cloud on the summit and they did not have a view. They descended to C2 with Mosedale, where they arrived at 8:30 pm.

Penson sprained his ankle on the trek to BC. He was in too much pain at BC. He went home to Barcelona on 23 April. He went to see a doctor, was sorted out and came back on 4 May. He went to C1 on 5 May [and summited on 26 May].

Hall reached C2 on 24 April. He was having difficulties breathing and left expedition on 9 May.

19 May oxygen bottles stolen from Lhotse high C3.
22 May seven bottles gone from the South Col.

Everest and Lhotse teams left BC by helicopter on 28 May.

Sherpas:
Dorje Gyalzen, Pangboche, 16/07/1982
Ptemba Bhote, Hatiya-1, Makalu 17/06/1971
Kalzang Dorje, Pangboche, 23/07/1981
Chayang Jangbu Bhote (Jabu)

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members.
Sherpas from C4 to top to C4.

  • 내부 원정 ID9456
  • 원본 EXPIDEVER17113
  • 대장Tim Mosedale
  • 루트 (Route)S Col-SE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8849m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용사용
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 10명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Timothy John (Tim) MosedaleUKLeader성공사용-
Jonathan Dell GuidryUSAClimber성공사용-
William HallUKClimber---
Scott MackenzieUKClimber성공사용-
Rory Edward McHughIrelandClimber성공사용-
Blake Michael PensonAustraliaClimber성공사용-
Chayang Jangbu (Chhyang Jyalbu) BhoteNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Pimba (Ptemba) BhoteNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Dorje Gyalzen SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Kalzang Dorje SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-

출처·참고문헌

http://rorymchugh.com · 2017 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
https://www.irishtimes.com/sport/other-sports/everest-diary-7-we-didn-t-like-where-we-were-it-felt-like-a-bad-disaster-movie-1.3073020 · 2017 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
Everest DiariesMcHugh, Rory · 2017 · 단행본 (1) ·