원정 개요

BC 12/04 5350m
C1 19/04 6000m
C2 21/04 6450m
C3 19/05 7350m
C4 20/05 8000m
Smt 21/05 by Ang Dorje, Pheby, Rinji, Pemba Nuru and Rinji Palden at 6:20 am.
Smt 22/05 by Gustin, Mace, Pasang Bhote, Dawa Bhote and Dipen Bhote at
6:30 am; Kelly, Jay, Brecx, Smith, Roberts, Kami Rita, Chewang Dorje,
Tenzing Gyalzen, Nima Tshering, Umung Bhote, Nawang Rapke and
Ngima Nuru between 4:20 am to 6:20 am.
Smt 27/05 by Haugen, Pender, Simper, Sange Dorje, Pemba Chhoti, Ang Jangbu,
Mingma Tenji, Pasang Wangchu Bhote and Nima Nuru at 5:30 am.

21 May summit teams left C4 at 8:50 pm on 20 May. Weather calm and nice. Straightforward climb. They spent about 30 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived 11 am. On 22 May C2 and 23 May BC.

22 May summit team and Robin Moore left at 9 pm on 21 May. Straightforward climb. They came across Sange Sherpa, who was with the Pakistani climber, when they were on the South Summit. Sange fell down the steepest part of the South Summit about 25 metres after he had unclipped himself. He must have suffered from HACE. He landed beside Smith, who tried to give him assistance, but Sange refused. Robin Moore, who is a doctor, reached Dawa Sange at about 8700m. She gave him some oxygen. She carried on and came across the Pakistani, and also gave him some of her oxygen and by the time, she reached about 8750m she was exhausted and her oxygen unit failed. She described it as a near death experience and descended to C4.

22 May summit team spent about half an hour on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived between 9 am and noon.

Jay had a retinal hemorrhage on the summit. She descended with two Sherpas and Roberts to C4. Roberts injected some dex and gave her oxygen at a flow rate of 4l per minute. She got better and could descend to C2 the following day.

On 23 May, everyone down at BC.

27 May summit team left C4 at about 8:30 pm. Weather was warm, but cloudy. Straightforward climb. Spent about half an hour on the summit. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 1 pm. On 28 May, the team descended to C2.

On 29 May, Pender who had slipped the previous day and allegedly got a concussion was helicoptered from C2 straight to Kathmandu via BC.

Davies reached the base of the Lhotse face on 24 April. On the descent back to BC he fractured his arm just below C1 during an arm wrapping descent on 25 April. He descended to BC and was helicoptered out on 25 April.

Kitney reached 6700m on 24 April. He decided to abandon the expedition and left on 10 May.

Wells reached 5600m on 30 April. He had asthma and left BC on 3 May.

Oxygen: C3 to summit to C3 by members; C4 to summit to C4 by Sherpas.

Sherpas:
Chuldim Dorje (private guide for Pheby)
Rinji (Rinzin), Gorakhani-5, Solukhumbu, 26/07/1975
Pasang Bhote, Chepuwa-1, Makalu-Barun, 30/11/1973
Dawa, Hatiya, [05/09/1988?]
Kami Rita, Thami, 22/10/1977
Chewang Dorje, Pangboche, 17/04/1981
Tenzing Gyalzen, Phortse, [02/07/1991?]
Nima Tshering. Phortse
Sange Dorje, Khumjung, 14/04/1978
Pemba Chhoti, Thami, 25/11/1972
Dawa Jangbu (Da Jangbu), Pangboche, 22/04/1973
Pemba Nuru
Dipen Bhote
Umung Bhote
Nawang Rapke
Mingma Tenji
Pasang Wangchu
Nima Nuru
Rinji Palden